Tag: <span>Hybrid belt</span>

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Eying the straight jeans tucked into the boots, the long sweaters, the dolman sleeves, the platform shoes and disco ball I recently saw in a store, I knew the sales woman, who looked 25, had no idea of what life was like here in New York City in the late 70’s and 80’s. A young taxi driver treated me like royalty because I told him I had seen “Queen” in concert, and I just couldn’t bring myself to rattle off all the rock concerts I had been to-or tell him that later, I had spent every Friday night dancing at the clubs: Studio 54, Xenon, Ice Palace. I have happy memories of my girlfriend and I prepping and primping for Friday night, THE night, OUR night. It took days to figure out what we would wear, to find the perfect belt, shoes, or to figure out what we were doing with our hair; we bought Paul Mitchell “SCHPRITZ” (which was really glue in a plastic pump pray bottle) by the gallon, so we could go dancing.

When I approach the step climber in the gym, my iPod is my master and Donna Summer ‘s ” Enough is Enough” is still enough to get the blood pumping through me… If you see me up there, swaying and rotating with moves that would defy the average person’s (of my age) balance… I promise I will not fall. I can dance, step, and read at the same time.

In the early 80’s I was an aerobics flunkie, and I am no runner– I am more like a pile driver when I do run…. I even tried pole dancing –but I was like Lucille Ball on pot when I approached the pole, gracefully reached up, hoisted myself onto it, and promptly fell, bruising my arm and leg on the way down. I am, to say the least bored by walking on a loop, so the treadmill is not for me. Forget spinning to nowhere… no can do. But when I am “stepping” that low center of gravity is, very useful. Some mornings I can be found in the gym, quite early, gyrating on the machine, reading glasses perched on my nose and a day’s worth of e-mail, trade papers and other stuff to pour through piled up on the floor next to me. Throwing the papers down from my lofty mount I make piles of the must keeps, and the disposable. Along with everything that floods my morning mind, it never occurs to me to care what anyone who sees this routine might think. I occasionally let loose the sounds of pieces of songs, and have provoked a few “SHUT UPS” from my fellow exercisers. But I don’t care. I am not embarrassed.

Every once in a while I catch a glimpse of myself in the mirror, and think it is really pathetic or funny or maybe both, as I hope for one more year of my butt defying gravity and notice that my arms still look pretty good to me considering I am a Jewish woman of a certain age. I can’t afford to do what Demi Moore did –I am stuck with my elbows and knees for a lifetime.

The only images I have of myself dancing as a child were from my father’s 8 mm movie footage. There I was in ballet class, the whole class moving right, and I was going left, my finger up my nose. My sister became the ballerina, and I got piano lessons, guitar lessons, art lessons-anything to keep me from dancing –there was a reason for that-Recently at my company holiday party, as soon as the disco tunes started spinning, my young, and I mean very young dance partner whispered ” I don’t know how to dance like this, ” (Even though he did…) and I whispered back, ” I am the Dancing Queen, I won’t let you down…” Nine dances later, they were calling us John (Travolta) and Olivia (Newton John –) there is something to be said for that-considering I was absolutely born in a year when I could have been my partner’s mother. All the women I worked with thought I need a young guy, so I fulfilled their fantasy.

In 1977, I came to New York to attend NYU. It was an era that has never left me. The end of The Vietnam war in 1975 gave license to a generation of dreamers and schemers to do our own thing… The anger and fighting was over… The clothes, the make-up the hair, the music, the drugs the pre-AIDS promiscuity, Jane Fonda’s videos, all lent a certain allure and importance to the new found freedom of the era. The dancing sanctified it…When I arrived in New York I was really a hybrid, part aspiring Jewish American Princess, part activist, part hippie/bohemian artist, writer. It was here, through my love of clothes and make-up and my love of dancing that my true identity was born. I was at Bond’s, The Underground, The Limelight, Max’ Kansas City, and of course Studio and Xenon. If I am totally cool at all, I am totally cool for that. (Well maybe not totally cool) this information admittedly makes me old by lots of people’s standards. And yes Rent and Chorus Line were my favorite plays.

Those clubs created a platform for Madonna, Cher, Donna Summer, and a new kind of socializing that no matter where you went, it was all about how sexy you could look, and how many drugs you could do, and get yourself home at least by the next afternoon.. The man in the white suit was “the man…” no tie, lots of chest, chains and even tattoos. Unlike today’s techno, we had moves and the moves were everything. My girlfriend and I practiced all the best moves on each other, and our weekend attire– Gold lame, leopard skin, sequined bandeau tops, fat belts, stretch halter jumpsuits and lots of white and glimmer shimmer that glowed under the lights.

The door-screening policies of the era added that last element of excitement– to be rejected at the door would be the total failure of a whole week’s work. Better be model pretty and dressed right. Disco wear was never EVER acceptable for day wear, but for night it was the only possible way to be part of the action, and the more baudy and crazy and bosomy and glittery, the better. A man’s white satin jacket and a medallion resting on a tanned chest with an open neck shirt and the collar turned up, now vile and de rigueur, was considered hot.

In those days “Starbuck” was still just a figment of Charles Dickens imagination, an ATM was probably a sex toy, the concept of an “internet” probably lived in the bowels of some government, underground cavern. An “i-pod” would have been the definition of something botanical, “Twitter” would certainly be something describing post orgasm movements, “Facebook” would have been a magazine and research was still done in a library. (I had to learn the Dewey Decimal System-THE WHAT?) If we wanted to “hook up” we had to call our friends on a land line, and even wait for the phone not to be “busy”. Pay phones were actually a major convenience and not the obsolete relics they are today.

Barnes and Noble had one store in Greeenwich Village. Crazy Eddie on Greenwhich Ave. was the best place to buy a TV in New York City. And the idea of a superstore like Circuit City, or Best Buy or Comp USA (two of which are now failed) were all conveniences of the malls; if you had asked any of us, we would have bet money you never would have seen one of those in New York City. The subways were filthy and slow, their windows cracked, walls covered with graffiti and filled with the stench of homeless people (come to think of it, where did all those homeless people go?)

For we who grew up loving the Monkees and Mike Connor in Mannix and thought Isaac Hayes had the sexiest voice on the planet, we had our long hair cut into layers and were blowing it into carefully pulled coifs with that perfect back flip twist to give it the Farah Fawcett look. Charlie’s Angels were hot, Brooke Sheilds made her gorgeous entry as nothing came between her and her “Calvins”. Cher was still the “foxiest” thing around (when was the last time you heard that word?) in her Bob Macky dresses, Washington Square park (where I lived) was the center of the drug world and the whole world as far as I was concerned. Soho was cool and where the artsist’s hung out and where we would go to look in the shops and eat in the chic restaurants.

Sam Shepard was the new, edgy hot young playwright. Stephen Sondheim was doing his thing….Star Wars, The Deer Hunter, Annie Hall and Sophie’s Choice were the Oscar contenders and a young actress named Meryl Streep was being discovered. We didn’t have seven screens in a household, we had one, and even if our TV’s were big and bulky and black and white, we all knew where we were when President Kennedy was shot…and we all made sure we had a TV the day MTV launched. The first Cable systems were transmitted by large antennas – there were no satellites and no satellite radio.. A walkie Talkie was about as close to a cell phone as any of us would get and those were reserved for skiers or children. Had someone been sitting next to me in bar in the mid seventies and described my life tethered to a Blackberry, I would have asked that person what drugs they had in their drink, how could a fruit have given me instant connectivity over every aspect of my life? By the time I graduated college, Jennifer Beals was the hottest woman on the planet in Flashdance, with those cut shouldered sweatshirts, and her legwarmers…and then, she was an all grown up lesbian in the L word… go figure… guys…

I remember my first Sushi date, and my friend talking me through tasting the Wasabi -a journey that would change my life….

Blondie was the hot entry into the Punk scene with ex Max’s Kansas city waitress Debra Harry considered one of the sexiest women on the music scene. Debra Harry is 64 years old now. Betsy Johnson is 68 and about a mainstream as it gets and Patricia Feld dressed the girls in Sex in The City.

Even if I was drinking and drugging, and sexing it up… I got to work every day and I still have a decent work ethic. I can still see how the Jane Fonda burn contributed to my higher good, like it did in those classic workout videos. And so, when Dancing Queen here, steps up on those machines, the disco ball might have crashed down a long time ago, but I know, despite the fact that I obsess and fantasize about all the bodily changes that could make any plastic surgeon rich, my generation is the wealthiest, healthiest and most capable of changing the world… we gave over 100 billion dollars to charities last year, and that even with all the “threatening” and anxiety provoking things going on in the world, I am a part of all the goodness. I have NO complaints, and even if I look ridiculous in the gym, I love my i-pod, I love life and my neighbors who can see me through their windows will tell you-I am still dancing.

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Source by Robyn Stecher

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Since the launch of their very first model, Barracuda stun guns have set the standard for what we have come to expect from a self defense tool. These are by far the most reliable hi power non lethal self defense weapons on the market today.

The BC-12, 1.2 million volt mini stun gun, was introduced to the general public in November of 2007. With a few revolutionary improvements, such as a rechargeable Nichol Metal Hydride (NiMH) battery, it was obvious that Barracuda was here to stay. The Nichol Metal Hydride battery is far superior to the Nichol Cadmium (NiCd) batteries which are used in most rechargeable stun guns. Unlike the Nichol Cadmium battery, the Nichol Metal Hydride battery has no memory, so after just a few charging cycles it can be charged at will, without fear of losing the longevity of the battery. This battery is also environmentally friendly and can be found in the new Hybrid cars as well.

The charger is built right in to the BC-12; you don’t have to worry about losing it. To charge the unit you simply slide the button on the bottom to expose the plug prongs and plug it in. The first time you charge the unit you want to charge it for around 12 to 15 hours and then once every six weeks or so for about an hour just to make sure you have the maximum charge. This model also features a wrist strap/safety disable pin which when disengaged, disables the unit. I really like this feature.

If for some reason you are overpowered while trying to use the unit and it is taken away from you, as long as you have the strap around your wrist or in your hand it cannot be used against you. A nylon holster is also included with this model. One thing to remember, if you use the holster be sure to place the unit in the holster firing end first, then fold the wrist strap across the top and close the flap. This will not only prevent you from losing the wrist strap, but will also ensure that when unit is removed from the holster the strap is readily available and the first thing in your hand.

With the success of the first model, and the constant demand for more power, the 1.8 million volt BC-18 was introduced. This model is identical to the BC-12 but with a lot more power. Just to here this model fired off will detour most assailants.

To make the product line complete Barracuda then released the 1 million volt BC-10. This model was designed for those who prefer the older, larger style stun gun. The unit is powered by two nine volt Eveready Alkaline batteries, and they do specify Eveready Alkaline batteries. These batteries will give you the maximum charge for full power. The batteries are very simple to install, just slide open the compartment on the bottom of the unit, snap them in, and you are ready to go.

The BC-10 also doubles as an 80db personal alarm, and both features can be used either together or separately simply by changing the position of the on/off switch. This model has a belt clip built right on to the unit and comes with a nylon holster as well.

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Source by Thomas L. James

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Wiper, the hybrid striped bass/white bass, is gaining a lot of popularity in fishing circles across Colorado and surrounding areas that have wiper fisheries. The greatest excitement is probably found among the relatively small circle of fly fishers who pursue them. Once you find these fish, fooling them with a fly is not difficult. The powerful fight that entails is something that will almost make you wonder why you’d fish for anything else.

Now, wiper are fairly mysterious fish and volumes have not been written on the subject of fishing for them. As with any type of fishing article, authors offer information based on their experiences, leaving the door wide open for an array of other tactics, insights, and opinions. It seems everyone I talk to about wiper have their own thoughts that have been formulated not by magazine articles and fishing shows, but from their own personal quests. This article is nothing different. I have put in many hours behind the reel searching for these steamrollers, and the following is a compilation of my experiences.

Fly fishing for wiper can be humbling, but if you get that one trip under your belt where you really get into them and figure them out, you will be hooked for life. Having these hybrid-vigor fueled fish tear line out of your hands is an amazing feeling, and we should consider ourselves lucky to have this fish available to us. It’s like saltwater fishing in the Rockies.

Wiper will eat forage fish about the width of the gape of their mouth, entitling this 6-inch shad to be dinner for the big boys.

Finding the fish:

The most important thing in any type of fishing is locating the fish. If you’re fishing trout in a river you look for pockets and runs of the right depth, size, and water speed. When smallmouth fishing in a lake, you look for certain structure and depth depending on the time of year, or you survey with your electronics. Whatever the scenario, if you find the spots where the living is easy and the food aplenty, you will find big fish.

It is often assumed wiper travel constantly and randomly around the lake in schools at generally high speeds picking off whatever food they come across. My thoughts are that this is partially correct. I have witnessed their schooling mentality and their speed of travel. One moment they will bust near the surface 50 yards to the east, and the next you will see them flashing underneath your boat and onto the west. But I don’t think it is completely random. Those frustrated by this thought, hang in there. This may not be an easy fish to locate, but I don’t think it’s a crap shot.

Every fish has some level of energy conservation written into their DNA. If they did not, they would exhaust themselves swimming about freely all day long. Think about trout in a river – the biggest fish will take the best spots where current is slight but carries plenty of oxygen and food so they can keep growing big and fat.

Wiper are no different. They have spots and patterns on each body of water that provide what they need – food. With little current to speak of in general, forage is the key. They are not so much like bass that they need cover and structure to ambush fish. They are more effective schooling and taking a team-based approach to feeding. The best example of this is when they corral baitfish to the surface, bay, or other type of trap so they can perform their signature “busting” feast.

Wind blowing into any structure makes that structure better. This complex has plenty to offer wiper, especially traps for schooling baitfish.

But what about when they are not busting baitfish near the surface? I believe they are doing similar things subsurface. Here’s where experience with a lake, knowing structure and water temperatures on the lake, and understanding wiper movement comes into play the most. Wiper like other fish will use underwater structure, edges if you will, as their highways. Perhaps it is a depth breakline, submerged road beds, rocks, sunken trees, or humps. Perhaps it’s a weed line, mud line, or inlet/outlet channel. Whatever it is, these edges define a path for them. These fish travel in a route consistent with edges and the availability of food.

The “available and abundant” theory expressed by a variety of authors is alive and well. Wherever there is an abundance of food that is highly available to predators, you will find fish. So is the case with wiper. However, don’t expect the schools to sit still in one area for long. Instead expect the schools to travel paths between or with abundant food sources. That’s right, I said “with.” Wiper are ravenous beasts. They have been known to decimate forage populations. They are living vacuums. In understanding this, definitely consider baitfish schools structure. Wiper almost certainly corral and follow schools of shad and other forage fish when abundantly present. One of the best indicators in finding wiper is prevailing wind. Always check the leeward side of a lake which may harbor schools of baitfish.

Chasing wiper around a lake is not often considered a smart thing to do. It wears out trolling motor batteries and may tear your heart out. Don’t get me wrong, I do it myself all the time – especially when the busting activity is moving slowly in semi-predictable fashion. I am not the type to sit in one spot and fish for hours even if it is the best choice. My only recommendation is to find a happy medium.

Surface water temperatures are one important piece of the puzzle that will help you find wipers. These temps combined with knowledge of the fish’s movement and preferred forage will provide a good starting point to finding wipers on any given day. In the spring as surface water temps approach the 50’s, wiper will become more and more active. Optimal temps are relative to a body of water and strain of fish, but in general the farther away you get from the optimal range for any fish, the lower their metabolism and thus the less they are compelled to eat and the slower their actions will be.

One of the reasons we put the Fish Explorer website together is to provide information that will help you find fish in individual water bodies. Our focus on water temperatures is not simply a novelty. If you understand how water temperatures affect fish on a particular lake, you are one step ahead of the game.

As wiper become more active in the early season, they reportedly go into a false-spawn. At lakes with active, accessible inlet streams at the right time of year, as Jackson Lake in northeast Colorado often experiences, wiper will actually run up the inlets as if spawning. In other places such as Union Reservoir, we have seen hordes of wiper stacked outside the inlet in a typical pre-spawn staging. It is also possible that these fish are relating to the shad that are in spawn mode. Whatever the reason for this activity, it would be a good place to check these inlet areas early in the season and any time of year, especially when the water is flowing.

Outlets are also a good place to scope out wipers any time of year, especially when the faucets are turned on. At Jackson Lake it was reported that several hundred wiper escaped into the outlet river, compelling officials to put in a screen downstream to capture the AWOL and return them to the reservoir.

In both of these cases, one thing is for sure – food organisms up and down the chain are drawn to these areas at any time of the year, which may prove to be enough draw to concentrate these ever-feeding fish.

When surface water temps are in the mid 50’s to mid 60’s wiper fishing seems to be the best in Colorado. They will be active in the upper column of water meaning they are more readily available and recognizable to the fly fisherman. The upper column feeding means that fish will be in the shallows, or they may be over deeper water but up high. During this period, you will also witness good wiper fishing all day, as opposed to the oft-assumed theory that wiper are only low-light feeders. I believe wiper feed all day just like trout in a river, because they inherently like to expend energy by swimming around and thus must eat accordingly.

Analyzing satellite images can help you determine lake structure. In this image of Jackson Lake you can easily see where the “flats” are versus the main basin, which may lead you to warmer water areas in the early-season.

As water temps rise, the fish will typically move deeper to more comfortable water. The temps are better, the forage thinks so too, and sunlight/UV rays will be more dispersed. This is the most difficult time to find wiper, and you really need to put your time in and get to know a lake for its structure and tendencies. Often experimentation and time on the water will be the primary key to your success. During these times you may find wiper moving back to the surface column at night, dawn, dusk, and very cloudy days. This is the typical low-light feeding scenario aforementioned. Wiper will still be feeding mid-day, just deeper. If you’re like most people and like to see fish in the upper column or in close to shorelines, fish the low-light times.

As fall approaches and water temps lower, wiper will move back into the upper column and you will again be greeted with more optimal fishing conditions. As is typical with most fish species, the pre-ice season turns wiper into ravenous beasts. They will feed heavily. Catching this period will often produce larger fish due to the fact the fish have been growing all season and are eager to eat whatever they can before they slow down for the winter.

Two thoughts come to mind at this point as I run out of ideas to express on how to find these fish: non-standard structure and rise identification. As Dick Pearson describes so well in his book “Muskies on the Shield”, structure is not necessarily always stationary and permanent like points, humps, and weeds. Often edges can be defined in less physical terms. Other edges you may consider are baitfish schools, wind current, and my favorite, carp pods.

If you see a swarm of seagulls or diving birds congregating in the middle of a lake, go over and check it out, you might find a nice school of baitfish that has drawn not only flying critters, but wiper as well. If there’s a good wind, look for current or places where the wind makes a “spot” a better “spot”. Examples are wind blown vegetation edges, a wind-blown point, or a saddle. Current will concentrate forage into certain areas and the wiper will be there.

Regarding carp pods – don’t overlook them. We have fished around carp pods and hooked really nice wiper. Stay as far away from the slow-moving mud-stirring pods as you can so not to spook them. Cast right over their edges and off further to the sides, but not right into them. Spooking them may break up the pod and in turn you may lose your structure. We will often fish bugger or crayfish patterns in this scenario, as we think the wiper are taking advantage of the plethora of food items being stirred up by the scrounging carp.

By rise identification, I mean being able to look at a fish breaking the surface and determining what kind of fish it is and what it is doing. One calm day on Union Reservoir, we were looking for wiper and having a tough go at it. There were rises all over the lake that we initially determined were trout or bass taking insects. As we studied the actions more thoroughly we began to notice a difference in rise forms. One type of rise was different than the others – it was more of a quick “pop” than a quick splash or slurp. Soon we discovered these somehow transferred into wiper – although we aren’t sure if they were wiper eating insects or small fish near the surface, or perhaps a school of shad that were semi-frequently slurping the top. We spent the rest of the trip looking for this rise form, quickly casting streamers into the vicinity, and hooking into several wiper.

Observation is key no matter what sort of fish you are going after. Continuously observe everything around you such as water temps, lake structure, bird activity, insect activity, barometric pressure, weather changes, wind direction, wind speed, your partner’s headache, and anything else that could play into the overall puzzle you are trying to solve. Even the smallest things may trigger a thought process that could lead to success.

First, bring binoculars with you. When you have a lot of water to cover, extending your eyesight could give you the edge. They are an invaluable tool on the water when trying to locate busting fish. If you see or hear some splashing on a distant shoreline, break out your binoculars and see if they’re spawning carp, shore birds, or really wiper crashing bait in shallow water. Scan over the lake to see if you can find any surface disturbance or any birds actively feeding. One day a pair of binoculars might be the difference between boom or bust.

Second, it should be mentioned that we don’t always find wiper in large, tight schools. We often see sporadic wiper spooked by the boat jetting away from the boat. I don’t think these are necessarily solo fish, but I don’t think they’re in large schools either. If you see this happen, take some time to fan-cast the area looking for more. Take note of where you saw the fish and come back later. And more importantly try to find some other spots that fit the same makeup where you saw the fish, paying attention to wind direction, structure, depth, etc.

Now on to actually fly fishing for wiper…

Presenting Flies to Wiper:

Presenting to wipers with a fly is not rocket science. Consider the fly and setup you use to be a tool. When you are fishing to wiper in the upper water column, present your fly there. When fishing to wiper down deep, present there.

The type of fly rod you use is determined by what you’re throwing. You will often want to cast far, so I’d recommend not going lighter than a 6wt rod. If you’re finding wiper relating to the surface you will want to throw poppers or high-riding streamers, therefore a 6wt is adequate with floating or short sink-tip lines. If you want to fish a few feet down, throwing a 150-grain RIO 24-foot sink tip is the ticket, and again a fast 6wt rod should do the trick. When you need to get deeper, say 5-10 feet deep, throwing a 200 or 250-grain RIO sink tip would do the trick and you will want to be using a 7wt or 8wt rod simply to be able to handle the heft of these lines. Go to a 300-500 grain line to get deeper, upgrading to a rod between an 8 and 10 weight to carry the load. With a well-made rod with some backbone, you should be able to play even the largest wipers available in the state.

Having a fly rod with a strong backbone is essential for landing the biggest wipers Colorado has to offer.

The main factor with what tippet to use is strength. I am not a firm believer in leader shyness when fishing streamers to stillwater fish. As long as you’re not using telephone cable and you’re not fishing super slow, I don’t think wipers will be deterred by your tippet. I will most often use 15-20 pound fluorocarbon tippet which for me has not broken off on a strike yet. The worst mistake you can make is to go too light and break off on a fish. I’ll use a couple of feet of 40-pound mono looped to a couple feet of 20-pound mono looped to the fluorocarbon tippet. So typically my entire leader is not much more than 6 feet long. However when I fish on or very near the surface, I will go longer.

When you’re fishing to wiper, you will want to vary your retrieve until you find what works best. Typically you cannot strip fast enough through busting schools. But often you will find that quick short strip-strip-strip-pause retrieves work better in other conditions and to well-fed wiper. Vary the pause length….you may be surprised to lose hold of your line as you look up to say something to your buddy on one of the pauses and a wiper grabs the suspended fly and turns at Mach 1 in the opposite direction. One thought that should play into your technique is the belief that some of the biggest wiper will sit below schools of shad, waiting for easy pickings. If you drop your fly through and under the baitfish school you may find a heavy surprise down below. Experiment every time you go out, the mood of the fish seems to change daily.

Bait size is a factor. In some studies on bass feeding, it is proven that fish in certain bodies at a given time of year will have a preferred bait size. For wiper, I have been told that they like to eat baitfish that are as long as the width of the gape of their mouth when open. Experiment with streamer sizes if you’re having trouble locating and hooking fish. If you’re fishing with a partner, start off the day fishing different colors and different sizes until one of you has more success than the other, then switch over to the hot bait. We have had success with streamers as short as one inch to streamers as long as six inches.

Which color fly to use is opening a huge can of worms. As my good friend and perennial fisherman Phil Small says, “If it ain’t chartreuse, it ain’t no use.” That often may be the case, although we fish chartreuse very often which may skew the numbers. One theory I believe in is contrast….to use a fly that is two-colored, often with a light and a dark. The reason this may be effective is that fish see colors differently throughout the day, and therefore may pick up on the contrast if one or both of the colors is less visible at the time. You may try to “match-the-hatch” or go with more of an attractor pattern….and either may work, but I do not know of any tried-and-true pattern that works every time all of the time. It took me a long time to believe in any color theories, but I now believe color has something to do with the equation. So again, experiment daily with color, determine if one pattern is working more so than another, and run with it.

These are some of my most commonly used flies when fishing for wiper. From top, l-r: A saltwater popper, perch-colored Rainy’s CF Baitfish Streamer – unweighted, a home-tied big clouser-style shad imitation, chartreuse/white clouser, another big shad imitation, a streamer weighted body with wrap-around lead, and my favorite crayfish/bugger pattern with twist-tail.

Whether you use weighted streamers or not is another item to experiment with. We have had success fishing very light flies, lead-head or clouser-type flies, and weighted-body flies. Clouser-type flies work very well when using the strip-pause retrieve and when fishing a little lower in the water column. Weightless flies seem to work better when fishing high and fast especially on a sink-tip…but don’t fail to experiment fishing very light flies on floating line quickly right in the surface film which gives an injured baitfish kind of look. You may also try fishing clouser-type flies on floating line to fish just under the surface. If you’re looking for fish down deep, sinking lines and heavy flies will allow you to cover more water quickly.

Whether to use a sparsely tied or a very hairy fly is yet another option that the wipers will help you decide. To give some guidance based on my observations, try sparser streamers in water with good clarity, and thicker, hairier streamers in discolored water or mudlines. Flies that produce more water disturbance as they’re retrieved will appeal better to the lateral line senses utilized more so by fish in darker waters. This is also the case for night fishing.

One area I have yet to experiment with greatly is the use of surface flies, namely poppers. Definitely give poppers a chance, especially in low-light conditions or in busting schools. Vary retrieves from a pop-pop pause, to ripping the popper through the surface film. The typical rule of thumb in top water presentation is to create just enough disturbance to attract fish. You’ll want to try fishing larger poppers that make more noise in choppy conditions, and smaller poppers in still conditions.

And do not forget flies other than streamers. As I mentioned before, we’ve caught plenty of wipers on bugger and crayfish patterns, especially around pods of carp when we were most inclined to throw them. The rule of abundant and available applies anytime you fish. If there’s an abundance of crayfish available to wiper, you better give it a shot. One way to know for sure what the fish are concentrating on is to look for undigested food coming out of a fish you’ve caught. One weekend fishing on Horsetooth Reservoir for smallmouth, we noticed a small orange chunk of crayfish spewed from the mouth of a bass we had on the hook next to the boat. It had been a tough day finding any smallies that day as we rotated between a variety of streamer patterns and retrieves. Truth is the smallies had turned onto the molting crayfish much like trout key in on insect hatches.

Presenting crayfish with a fly rod is not as easy as fishing a tube jig on a spin rod. You want to fish them slow and low, preferably in areas with various sized rip-rap and boulders, even ticking the rocks. Doing so will often lead to plenty of hang-ups and lost flies. To improve your efficiency, fish a short sink-tip line with crayfish patterns designed to ride hook-point-up. The best crayfish patterns are those that are tied more like a wooly bugger, with short or no pincers (chelae), and in a color leaning more towards orange/tan than dark brown. In studies that relate to this subject, smallmouth bass preferred softer molting crayfish over larger hard-shell crayfish, the former tending to be of lighter color.

The jury is still deliberating on whether fishing insect imitations to wiper is effective. I myself have not tried this one lick. Whenever I have found wiper smacking the surface in a manner that might suggest that they are eating insects, a streamer always did the trick. But, perhaps this is a technique to consider. I believe all fish eat insects at some time or another – and I would guess that wipers may do so more than one might think.

For slower fishing, and when letting our fly drop below shad schools, I like to go with a shinier and more active streamer like this sparkly clouser-style streamer.

The Battle:

The wiper fight is what you came for. These fish take a fly in what was described by Dennis McKinney’s DOW Outdoor’s Journal article “Wiper Watch” as a U-turn fashion, which I completely agree with. The initial take is a hard thump, as if they hit it going 30 MPH in the opposite direction. Setting the hook should not be a problem as they tend to hook themselves.

Getting the fish to the reel, meaning picking up all the slack so your reel drag is activated, is not difficult to do with wiper. They will typically take all the slack line at your feet out with them on the first run. Just make sure you’re not wrapped around your feet, bushes, or items in your boat before the strike. Doing so may bring the fight to an abrupt halt and will cost you about one fly.

The fight can vary, but typically they will make a very pronounced initial run followed by a rest period and subsequent sharp runs. Do not overplay the fish to the point it is exhausted, and do not try to net the fish so green that it will injure itself flailing about. Take advantage of their “rest periods” by turning their heads gently, pumping your rod, and reeling in line to bring them closer to you. Let them take drag when they want to run. Do not put too much pressure on the fish as you may wear a hole in their lip that will make escape much easier for them. And do not, by any means, give them slack line.

After a few runs, if the fish seems to be losing some steam, put more pressure on the fish to bring it to the net. Once landed, if you plan to release the fish, handle it gently, support its weight fully when lifted for a photo, and return it to the water promptly. I have had no problem reviving wiper when handled in this manner. We always fish barbless and have not lost any fish due to this factor alone (if we do lose a fish it’s typically our own fault for allowing slack.) I encourage barbless fishing for any type of fishing you may try…hooks are easier to get out of your skin when the inevitable occurs, the hooks set deeper, and as long as you keep your line taught I do not believe you will ever lose a fish due to barbless hooks. But you will lose fish to weak hooks, so use strong saltwater hooks for your wiper flies or they might come back as straight as an arrow.

Smaller Wiper can be “thumbed” out of the water, but if you plan to release the fish, be sure to support their full body and don’t leave them hanging by the lip.

In conclusion, if you have not hooked into a wiper on the fly, you’ve got to give it a shot. But be aware that it may turn you into a wiper junkie. Finding wipers is a majority of the battle, so concentrate your efforts there, and when you do find them get ready for a battle! These observations are only from my experiences and a lot is yet to be written on this subject.

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Source by Matt Snider

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Being lifelong travelers, we all love our lightweight, multipurpose gear that can withstand the rigors of the road. Gear should be dependable, multifunctional, durable and perform beyond expectations. Nothing could be truer when it comes to buying a good hiking backpack, especially considering it’s going to be your home away from home. Traveling, especially long-term, will literally test the limits of your bag and your body, and as such this decision should never be made impulsively. Buying your backpack should not be a rushed decision and factors like trip length, capacity, material, functionally and comfort should always be considered. When I first got serious about investing in a good pack, I was at REI for a good 3 hours -I think they started to suspect I was applying for a job.

If my three hours was any indication, buying a good backpack is not an easy task. With hundreds of backpack manufacturers and styles, it can understandably be overwhelming. Whatever you do, don’t go cheap. You’ll be doing yourself a disservice and end up buying a new one anyways. A good backpack is an investment. You needn’t spend $500 on a backpack, but be wary of cheap, no-frills, run of the mill $70 brands, as you’ll regret the design flaws and absence of extras. Spend a little more for a good backpack from a trusted brand, and it will be your companion for many trips to come. The Osprey pack I eventually settled on has traveled with me from the U.S to the Middle East for 10 awesome years and I know it has another good 10 years to go.

Travel Backpack or Hiking Backpack

Before you begin shopping for the right pack, it’s important to know the difference between travel backpacks and hiking backpacks. A travel backpack is a backpack-suitcase hybrid with a zippered side panel similar to a suitcase. Hiking backpacks are the more commonly seen cylindrical top loading packs with straps, clips and a top lid. Some people have an opinion that hiking backpacks are only suited for the backcountry and has no place for the backpacker, I disagree. What works for you ultimately comes down to personal preference and style of travel. Travel backpacks are great for easy, organized access to gear and transporting from hostel to hostel. They also function well for short walks or even as a daypack.

On the other hand, if you possibly have camping or long treks in your travel plans, you may want to consider a hiking backpack. Hiking backpacks are designed for comfort, proper weight distribution, and toughness. Unlike a travel backpack, hiking backpacks will have enhancements like full-sized hip belts, shoulder and back suspension systems along with plenty of load bearing straps to mitigate discomfort. Granted the top down packing isn’t as convenient to access your gear, but that’s part in parcel to proper weight distribution. A good compromise would be to get a hiking backpack with side load access.

I am generalizing a bit as they do have travel backpacks that are in the upper capacity range with more advanced suspension systems, but if you’re going to get a 70L travel backpack, you may as well go with a hiking backpack. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did for that unexpected 20 mile trek to the next town.

Personal Backpacking Style

Next, determine the style of travel you normally like to do. Unless you’re willing to buy a different backpack for each trip, figuring out your travel style will save you a lot of money in the long run and give you a piece of foundation gear that’s ready for any trip. For instance, if you generally go on week long trips you needn’t get a high capacity bag and could probably get away with a 35 liter to 50 liter (L) pack, whereas living long-term on the road may require 65L or greater.

Size is pretty subjective though and shouldn’t be the only determining factor. Some people are able to pack very bare bones, where others require a bit more. Consider these factors:

How long is your trip:

Depending on the length of your trip the capacity and overall weight of your pack will vary. Short trips require less capacity, and long trips typically require more. But be aware that the bigger the pack the heavier it will become. 50lbs may not seem a lot at first, but 2 months in and it will feel like a ton of bricks.

What Type of Activities will you do:

I personally feel that one bag can rule them all since I generally use my pack for everything. However, this may not be the case for everyone. Knowing what type of activity you’ll be doing will help you zero in on that perfect backpack. If you’re not planning on carrying it around much, consider a travel backpack or even a wheeled backpack, whereas if you foresee yourself doing long treks then a hiking backpack may be more suitable. I like to be prepared for any type of spontaneous activity, so I lean more towards hiking backpacks. Also, hiking backpacks are generally made a bit tougher, so keep in mind that the more challenging the activity, the greater the stress on the bag.

Lightweight or the kitchen sink:

Although I mentioned earlier that size is not the main determining factor, it’s still important to consider capacity based on what you plan to bring. If ultra light is your goal, avoid high capacity backpacks as you’ll invariably bring too much or if you do manage to pack light your backpack won’t distribute the weight properly. Conversely, if your backpack is too small, you won’t be able to fit everything in. Have an idea of the gear you’re bringing and pick the capacity of your bag accordingly. Don’t hesitate to bring your items to the store to see how it fits in the packs. A reputable retailer, like REI, won’t have a problem with this.

What To Look For In A Hiking Backpack

Backpacks vary in functionality as much as they do in appearance, with the more expensive models having the most bells and whistles. As with everything, your decision here is closely related to what type of traveling you like to do.

Water Resistant

Your pack is probably not going to be completely waterproof. Meaning, if submerged, or in a torrential downpour your clothing and equipment will still get wet. Although most backpacks now come with a rain cover, you still want it to be made of a tough, rip proof, and lightweight silicone coated nylon or Cordura type material that allows rain or water to bead off and not soak through.

Detachable Daypack

this option is really a personal preference, and not really a deal breaker, as many travelers bring an additional pack for day trips. But for those focused on traveling light, carrying two bags can be cumbersome. I personally like the option of a detachable daypack as I have it only when I need it. On my Osprey, the top lid doubles as a daypack. Not as comfortable as a dedicated daypack, but it serves its purpose.

Heavy-duty Lockable Zippers

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. No matter how good the material of the backpack, if the attachment points, like zippers, are weak the whole bag is worthless. Make sure the zippers are tough and lockable where applicable.

Pockets and Compartments

The more compartments the better. Good backpacks usually have a number of compartments to help store and separate your gear so you won’t have to sift through layers of clothes just to find your chapstick. For instance, maps can go in the top flap, while your flip-flops are stored conveniently in the side pocket. However you decide to pack, separate pockets allow easy and quick access to your gear. Most backpacks will also have strategically placed pockets, like on the hipbelt, so you can get to your gear without having to drop your pack.

Lightweight Internal Frame

Backpacks generally come with an internal frame, external frame, or no frame at all. I strongly recommend a lightweight internal frame made from strong carbon fiber rods. This provides more load support and just looks better. External frames are bulky, conspicuous, and use dated technology and frameless backpacks have awful load support at higher weights. Trust me, without proper weight distribution, you’re shoulders are going to feel every single one of those pounds.

Side Load Access

I’m seeing less and less of this function on the newer backpacks, but if you do happen to find one with side access you’re golden. You’ll be able to access items from the main compartment of the bag without digging in from the top. You’re life will just be that much simpler.

Suspension System with Padded Shoulders and Load Bearing Straps

Don’t even consider buying a backpack unless it has either an adjustable or fixed suspension system, along with a bunch of load bearing straps. The suspension system is the part that usually rests against your back and where the padded shoulders connect. Fixed system means that it fits to one torso size, whereas the adjustable system can be calibrated. The whole system is meant to help stabilize load and transfer weight to your hips. The load bearing straps, like the sternum strap, will also help move the weight around minimizing pain and discomfort.

Ventilation

To minimize the discomfort from an annoying sweaty back, get a backpack with ventilation. Most internal-frame packs will have some sort of ventilation system or design feature that promotes airflow, creating a permanent breathable layer between yourself and the backpack. Although not essential for load support, it certainly increases your comfort level.

Padded Full-size Hip belt

This is probably the most important feature of any backpack since your hips will be carrying 80% of your backpacks weight. The padding in the belt will help you avoid fatigue, discomfort, and of course load distribution. Make sure you get one that’s full-size, where the padding comes around your hip bone to the front, and isn’t just a thin strap with a clip.

Multiple Straps and Tool Attachment Points

This feature is a personal preference and doesn’t really impact comfort and load distribution but I do feel it’s just as important. I like the idea of having excess straps, clips and tool attachment points. You’re able to perform on-the-fly spot fixes for a variety of unexpected circumstances, making your backpack function more than just as a bag. You’re able to tie, hook, and rig a whole mess of things while on the road without having to carry additional gear. Some backpacks have begun to include “daisy chains” (typically found on climbing packs) which is a series of tool attachment loops.

Internal Hydration Reservoir

An internal compartment that holds your favorite hydration bladder (i.e. Camelpak, Platypus) so you have hands free access to H2O. Openings on the backpack will allow you access to the sip tube making it a very practical feature during your long treks. You won’t have to dig into your pack or stop your momentum looking for your water bottle.

What size backpack do I need

There’s no definitive rule for this question, as it completely depends on your own travel style, trip duration and weather. Generally, the colder the weather the greater the capacity needed; the greater the capacity the greater the overall weight. I try to pack light and bring only what fits in the backpack. So the best advice is to find a bag capacity you’re comfortable with, and pack in only what you absolutely need and what fits. I’ve provided a very broad guideline below:

Trip Length /Capacity in Liters (L)

Day Hikes 25-35L

1-3 Nights 35-50L

3-5 nights 50 to 75L

5+ nights 65+L

How to find the right fit

For the best comfort and proper load distribution you need to make sure your backpack fits correctly. Ideally, you should try it before you buy it, but that’s not always an option. To find the correct fit you’ll need to find your torso length, not your height, which is the distance, in inches, between your 7th cervical vertebra, and your iliac crest. In other words, from the base of the neck to the top of your hip bones. Once you have this measurement, use this guide:

Backpack Size /Torso Size in Inches

Extra small 15 ½

Small 16 to 17 ½

Medium/Regular 18 to 19 ½”

Large/Tall 20 +

As for your waist size, most backpacks have adjustable hip belts so finding your precise hip size is not as important as determining your torso length. Just make sure the belt sits on top of your hips, with about an inch above and below the belly button.

How much should I spend on a Hiking backpack

You’ll find backpacks ranging from under $100 to as high as $600. Unless you have an unlimited budget and want the latest model just because, it isn’t necessary to spend more than $300. With that being said, I would also stay away from anything under $150 as they will be lacking on essential features like a suspension system or a padded hip belt. Buying a backpack is an investment, and the last thing you want is for the seams to rip or a shoulder strap to tear off when you need it most. Just make sure your backpack has, at a minimum, the above features and fits comfortably.

The Best Backpack Brands

There are hundreds of great brands out there with an equally daunting number of styles and models. I’m not really the authority on which brand is better than the next. I can only tell you the brands I prefer and those whose quality I have confidence in. I’ve been using the same Osprey backpack since 2004, and my wife has been using a Gregory for nearly as long. I can honestly say, that after relentless airline abuse, backcountry trips, and overseas adventures, not a single strap, zipper or clip has ever needed replacement. Worth mentioning as well, Osprey and Gregory offer lifetime warranties on all their bags. You’ll probably never need it, but it’s great to know that the company stands behind their products.

Osprey

With 40 years experience manufacturing backpacks, and a lifetime warranty, Osprey exudes quality. They have one of the largest selections of styles and sizes for all sorts of adventuring, and their packs sport the latest backpacking technology. Osprey is my personal favorite and go to brand of choice; you really can’t go wrong with these guys.

Gregory

Like Osprey, these guys specialize in backpacks. My wife will attest to their quality and comfort. She has used her backpack for close to 10 years without a need to ever repair or replace. Gregory also stands behind their products with a lifetime warranty.

The North Face

Originating in San Francisco, The North Face has been developing adventure gear for over 40 years. I’ve never had the pleasure of using their backpacks, but with their pedigree and lifetime warranty, I would feel confidant carrying their packs any day of the week.

Arc’teryx

Along with having a really cool name, Arc’teryx pumps out some pretty awesome products. They are one of the more expensive brands out there, but if you’re willing to pay the price, you’ll most certainly get the quality

Deuter

A low to mid range brand, Deuter is a solid choice if you want function for a reasonable price. They’ve been in the backpacking game since 1968 and are very popular amongst Europeans.

Backpack Accessories

Rain Cover (separate or built in)

Most backpacks are water resistant but not waterproof, making them susceptible to persistent rain exposure. It’s a worthwhile addition if your backpack doesn’t already come with a built in rain cover. You needn’t get a fancy one or spend a lot of money, just make sure it fits your pack size. I use REI’s Ducks Back Rain Cover, and it works perfectly fine.

Airporter Bag

The last thing you want is to have your backpack damaged before you even start your trip. With all the straps, exposed shoulder, and hipbelt, it’s easy for something to get caught and tear right off. An Airporter bag will cover your entire backpack (think bag within a bag) and protect it during transport. As well, you can put a lock on the lockable zippers as an extra layer of theft deterrence. I have the Osprey Airporter LZ. I wish it was lighter (weighs about 1lb) but I suppose it’s worth it for the extra peace of mind.

Well, there you have it, my “how to buy an awesome hiking backpack” guide.

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Source by Carey Leo

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The table saw is the heart of any workshop. Purchasing the right table saw is critical as it will affect the quality of your work, your productivity and the limits of what you can actually build in your shop.

Table saws come in four categories and I’ll explain each one and outline the pros and cons of each one. The table saw you ultimately purchase will be largely influenced by your budget, this space you have available and in some cases the actual type of floor that you will be working on.

Portable Table Saw ($150 to $300)

Portal table saws are the most popular selections in most home workshops because of their cost, weight and size. These models can be installed directly onto a workbench or a floor stand. They’re easy to handle, transport and move around the shop. Some woodworkers with tight spaces will actually stow them away under their benches, in a corner or even in a closet. Although these table saws offer low cost and portability these saws have several drawbacks. Although adequate for the novice woodworker, cutting accuracy is somewhat limited. Inherent play in the work guides and a small cutting a table may create acceptable cuts for many projects but may be an issue with larger and more sophisticated work. To save cost portal table saws have direct drive motors that operate on 110 volts and are typically limited to one horsepower. Thick heavy cuts are usually beyond the capabilities of this type of table saw. I have found that extensive use of these small saws eventually results in motor burnout, and the motor is not replaceable. Although limited in power, the saws are also quite noisy and usually start with an abrupt jolt of the blade. One last issue with the saws are their blade angle systems. Most use a crude pivot system that is difficult to set and may get rapidly clogged with sawdust making the mechanism stiff. Although these saws that serve a purpose, you will likely want to upgrade as your woodworking skills evolve.

Contractor Saws ($600 to $1,000)

These units resemble larger versions of the portable saw variety but with some significant improvements. Although usually mounted on a stand with wheels, these units are not portable and are limited to rolling around the shop at best. Weighing in most cases over 250 pounds they’re not portable. Most of their weight is in the motor and table surface. Larger motors up to 3 horsepower and larger cast iron tables offer bigger cutting capacities. Well designed cutting guides with low tolerance levels offers much more accurate cutting as well. Most contractor saws operate on 220 volts and use a belt driven motor system. Starts and stops are smoother and quieter and if in the future if you wish to increase the size of the motor or replace a burnt out one, the process is easy and straightforward. Most contractor saws also have worm gear driven blade tilt systems that are more accurate and less prone to jamming due to sawdust buildup. One drawback of contractor saws is their open cabinet design, much like the portable saw. This makes dust collection difficult to control. In spite of this drawback, contractor saws offer many great features for the intermediate woodworker. Even as your skill levels evolve, contractor saws can offer you many years of reliable service.

Hybrid Saws ($1000 to $2000)

These are a relatively new addition to the class of saws available on the market. They’re a cross between contractor saws and larger cabinet saws, and usually offer more of a cabinet structure to the floor over the contractor saw configuration. These saws will usually house the belt driven motor within the cabinet. This makes dust collection more efficient, and the saw runs quieter as well. These saws are heavier, typically in the 350 pound range and feature larger motors starting at 3 horsepower. Like the contractor saw they have worm gear driven blade tilting systems and larger cast iron tables. Many hybrid saws can be fitted with table extensions to make cutting larger sheets easier.

Cabinet Saws ($2000-$10,000)

Cabinet saws are both amazing pieces of equipment and prohibitively expensive for most hobby woodworkers. They’re heavy and require a solid cement floor to rest on. Cabinet saws also take up a lot of space especially when fitted with large table extensions. All run on 240 volt power and motor sizes vary from 3 horsepower to 6 horsepower. Some expensive industrial units even run on three phase power, not available in a home. They offer the maximum in cutting accuracy and capacity and although most of the saws discussed use a 10″ blade, some cabinet saws operate with a larger 12″ blade that even further increases cutting capacity. The cost and size of this woodworker’s dream limits these units to large shops with solid cement floors and big budgets.

Buying Strategy

If you can afford to purchase a new contractor saw outright, consider this one of your best options. A good contractor saw will serve you for many years to come and turn out quality work. If it’s not in your budget consider a portable saw as a temporary measure with the plan to upgrade to a contractor’s saw in the future. Think carefully before you make the leap to a hybrid or cabinet saw. Justify the expense and make sure you have

Forty years ago, I bought my first portable table top saw from an ad in the newspaper (the internet wasn’t invented then!). The kind man sold it to me with a stand for $20 and I was able to get started in woodworking. Over the past four decades I have owned every type of saw outlined in this article depending on what work I was doing and the space I had to work with. I still believe that the best bang for the buck is the contractor saw. A few years ago a fellow was selling one on Kijiji and I was able to buy his hardly used contractor saw for the price of a new portable saw. Obviously the contractor saw was a much better deal, and has served me well since 2012. I have two other contractor saws that I have used for over 25 years. They have proven to be solid and durable saws that enable me to turn out good quality work.

One Last Word on Table Saws

When purchasing a table saw, look at the blade tilt direction. These days, the majority of saws are left tilt however some models are configured for right tilt blades. I will go into more detail in another article on all the advantages and disadvantages of these two different configurations. However in general, right handed woodworkers are more compatible with left tilt models. Also, when it comes to beveled cuts, left tilt saws are safer to use. Although right tilt models have some measurement and production advantages, most woodworkers will find left tilt blade saws easier and safer to operate.

Summary

Always try to buy the best saw type you can afford. Cheap portable saws can create limitations and tend to wear out quickly under constant use. Consider the dust collecting capabilities of the you are considering as well as power requirements (do you need to install a 240 volt outlet?).

There are many lightly used saws out there. Consider buying a better designed used saw over a cheaply made new one.

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Source by Ron Pawlowski

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Shopping for a table saw is one of the most significant investment decisions a carpenter or wood-worker can make.

To make the right decision you really have to be specific about what your options are.

Types of Table Saws:

Virtually all table saws are categorized in one of these following classifications:

• ‘job-site’ or portable table saws
• contractor table saws
• cabinet table saws
• ‘hybrid’ table saws

For anyone hoping to buy a table saw, you need to understand what these categories mean, and what you can expect to get from saws in each category.

Portable Table Saws:

Portable table saws were developed for you to easily transport them round.

This is often beneficial to craftsmen along with others who spend considerable time on-site. Portable table saws nevertheless manage to carry out the same primary functions as heavier table saws, but on a lower level. Rather than having a large induction motor like on saws in other groups, these saws are typically powered with a compact universal motor. This may mean these saws have less power and may be noisier.

The progress made in the last few years to portable/job-site saws have ensured that they are far better and more desirable to serious wood workers.

Having said that, portable table saws lack sufficient enough power to cut through thick hard woods and tend to be inappropriately designed to give the true precision in which exceptional carpentry asks.

Contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws provide better choices for the experienced wood-worker and extreme hobbyist, so now we’ll go through them in-depth.

Contractor Table Saws:

Contractor saws were originally meant to be light enough to be taken from site to site, on the go. Most have an open base and weigh in at about 250-350 lbs. They may also be priced within range of your keen hobbyist’s pocket.

Contractor table saws can be suited to simple cabinetry and carpentry tasks and straightforward furniture making. Tons of contractor table saws now feature premium fence systems. Making use of the highest quality saw blade, and utilizing blades suitable for a certain type of cut will certainly help the ability of a contractor table saw and allow it to complete some sophisticated carpentry projects.

Cabinet Table Saws:

Cabinet table saws – given their name due to the totally enclosed ‘cabinet’ type base platform. These kinds of saws represent the other end of the scope compared to the contractor saw. They are meant to match the capability and durability requirements of experienced woodworkers and carpenters.

Cabinet table saws are much more substantial and robust in their all round structure versus contractor saws. They’ve been created with greater trunnions, arbor assemblies, gearing and much more cast iron and steel. They are loaded with more potent huskier motors compared to contractor table saws. This means the cabinet saw is perfect for sawing through thick hard wood with ease, all day long!

There is very little wearing vibrations across the saws positioning and settings.

The cabinet table saw is much more costly than a contractor table saw.

They are not transportable, with a weight of above six hundred pounds. However, even with the higher cost, the power needs, and the hulk of the machine, cabinet saws have become the ultimate desired saw for certified woodworkers/carpenters and serious enthusiasts alike.

Hybrid Table Saws:

Lately businesses have identified that there’s an apparent gulf in class between cost-efficient contractor saws and high-end cabinet saws. It has resulted in a whole new group of saw – The ‘hybrid’ saw.

The hybrid table saw includes several of the most necessary cabinet saw capabilities at a price that may still be in range for a keen beginner hobbyist.

A few hybrid saws possess a more cabinet style foundation and other types possess a small enclosed base and legs. In each case, the base is enclosed, housing the motor inside.

Hybrid saws have more powerful trunnions and arbor bearings and in most cases have got a stronger drive belt system and gearing when compared to contractor saws. The trunnions of hybrid saws are oftentimes attached to the base of the saw, which makes detailed placement of the blade with the miter slot less painful and more enjoyable.

The fact is hybrid table saws are a scaled down adaptation of a cabinet saw. They’re lighter in weight and designed with less powerful motors. They aren’t in reality in the same class as superior cabinet saws, nonetheless hybrids have proven to be stable and well made and can offer several positive aspects to a keen hobbyist.

Choosing the Best Table Saw for Your Needs:

The type of saw that may suit your needs best is based on:

• Whatever woodworking you perform
• The time you spend woodworking
• Your budget and
• Your own working area as well as the sort of access you’ll have to your working area (for example, think twice before having to move a large cabinet saw into a smallish cellar or basement)

If you simply spend only a few hours per week in your workshop, building small cabinets and working on modest craft-type projects, even though a cabinet saw could be wonderful to have, it is beyond what you’ll need.

Having said that, if you’re managing a nice work shop and so you demand a saw that could run for several hours without hesitation, a low-end contractor saw might slow you down and you’ll wind up being frustrated.

Hybrid saws provide you with flexible options both for dedicated hobbyists and in particular small-scale specialist work shops.

In addition to the type of saw you need, the particular characteristics of the saw are equally as important.

More and more inexpensive contractor saws offer you several of the capabilities that you might find on an excellent cabinet saw.

But don’t forget that while saws within the cabinet saw category share specific characteristics, they are not all produced at the same level of quality. Be aware of the level of a saw’s components, which includes the standard of:

• The grind and finish of the top and extension wings
• The fence system
• The weight and positions of the trunnions
• The features that make power to the blade stronger

When you buy a table saw you’re making a large investment which means that it is worth thorough consideration. So read through reviews, analyze specifications and check out the good and bad points of any saws you are considering.

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Source by Ed Richards

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It’s amazing how many people get taken for a ride (ha ha) just by taking their car in for a basic service. A lot of people over think the modern technology of their car and believe everything the repair shop tells them. Modern cars really require way less maintenance, even though the basic concept is the same.

With all this power and amenities, most people forget or never knew that it is the same basic internal combustion engine used over a hundred years ago. And, electric and hybrid cars require even less maintenance than conventional automobiles! Learning basic maintenance about your vehicle can save you thousands of dollars over time and minimize potential breakdowns.

The three thousand mile oil change is a thing of past. If you’re still changing your car’s oil every three thousand miles, you’re wasting your money. You need to know what type of oil your car requires and the capacity. You need to know where the oil filter is located. Cheap oil filters will damage your car over time because they can take up to nine seconds longer to achieve maximum flow at startup. If you use one of those quick lube shops, make sure you know what type of oil they will use to refill the crankcase. Make sure you check the level on the dipstick before you leave the shop. Earlier I mentioned that you need to know where the oil filter is located, here’s why, some shops will not change the filter, but will charge you for one, if you mark the old one before you take the car for servicing, you’ll be able to verify that it has been replaced. Most of these shops lose money on the $29.99 oil change. A good quart of oil will set you back about five dollars, so if your car requires five, that’s twenty- five dollars, add the oil filter and you’re over the thirty dollar mark.

Now pay close attention. This is where you need to be up to date on your car’s maintenance schedule. The $29.99 oil change is a lure, it’s to bait you in and then double or triple charge you for a filter or drive belt or some other regular maintenance item you didn’t keep up with. We’re not trying to make everyone weekend mechanics, we just want car owners to read the owner’s manual so they’ll have an idea of what maintenance has to be done at the recommended mileage intervals. With that said, you tell me if it makes sense to take your new car in for the fifteen thousand mile service and be charged $400 to $600? What did they do to a car with only fifteen thousand miles besides change the oil?

You need to learn what maintenance items to consent to and what to say no to and still be assured your car is in optimum operating condition. A great benefit in learning how to properly maintain your car is also learning how to diagnose potential repair issues.

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Source by Tony Paul

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The Basics of How a Turbo Wastegate Works

If you want to understand which boost controller might be right for you, a basic understanding of the turbo system is in order. The turbo is essentially a supercharger, driven by exhaust gas. The function of any supercharger is to force more air into the system than the engine could draw in from its own pumping action. The atmosphere itself, won’t create power. Instead, it enables more fuel to get burned. So, although many of us center on “the boost”, boost alone will not be enough. The truth is, in the example of the gasoline engine, boost alone causes a lean condition and destruction for the engine. Much more about that in a future article.

We’ve mentioned your turbo is actually an exhaust driven supercharger. The supercharger is simply a sort of air compressor, that is driven by belt, exhaust, motor unit, etc. There are several sorts of compressors employed in supercharger systems, although with turbos, you will be essentially working with a compressor wheel. This wheel uses an inducer and exducer combination, to bring in air at atmospheric pressure and cram it into the engine. There’s considerably more to that, but this is a “basics” article, so that’s all we must have for the moment.

Linked to the compressor wheel (literally, connected by the shaft), is the exhaust turbine. That’s where the “turbo” nickname derives from. Hot exhaust from the engine is directed over the turbine, making it spin. This in turn, makes the whole compressor side cram more air into your engine, creating “boost” pressure. This lets the engine to:

1) Burn more fuel

2) Make more power

3) Make more exhaust to drive the turbine

If left unchecked, the cycle repeats 1,2,3 1,2,3 1,2,3 until BOOM! Your engine self-destructs. Not the most effective arrangement, so we want a solution to keep your power from climbing, unchecked. Enter the wastegate. The wastegate is actually a valve (literally, a “gate”) that permits a lot of the exhaust gas (waste) to bypass the turbine. Now we can add a fourth step:

4) The wastegate opens, allowing the turbine to slow, and the boost pressure (and by extension, the power) to fall. The cycle then repeats.Linked to the wastegate itself, is a wastegate actuator. This is just a spring loaded diaphragm that holds the wastegate closed, until some boost pressure is reached. As soon as the boost pressure is sufficient overcome the spring pressure, the wastegate is opened and the boost pressure falls. The cycle will repeat, if there’s sufficient exhaust pressure and boost (I.e., when you keep your foot in it).

This basic device is enough for the turbo unit to work. The boost pressure will be set to what the wastegate actuator spring supports. Nonetheless, we desire more boost. So, we’ve got to discover a method to make the boost pressure adjustable. Say hello to the boost controller. Most factory OEM turbo systems add an electronic boost control system to the equation. These systems are generally not user-adjustable, nonetheless they work exactly the same as aftermarket systems. In my next article, I’ll explain how the best electronic and manual boost controllers (MBC) work.

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Source by Maximilian Best

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It can be quite exciting to have your first treadmill right in your home. You can walk or run at the right speed anytime of the day or night. You won’t have to worry about the weather or speeding vehicles as well. You get a great workout anytime you want to without heading to the gym or going out for a walk or run.

Although working out on a treadmill is usually considered safe, especially if its speed is set for walking, if it’s your first time to use this workout machine, you still need to know how to use it properly. This entails being aware of the usual treadmill workout mistakes that can cause you to get hurt or injured and damage your equipment.

Below are the top mistakes you should avoid when working out on a treadmill for the first time:

Not dressing properly for a workout. When running on a treadmill and you have long hair, make sure you tie it back. If you fall from the equipment, aside from getting hurt from the fall, you’ll be in more pain if your tresses get caught in a moving part. To protect your feet and to simply be better protected when working out on the treadmill, wear walking or running shoes with non-slip soles and never use walk or run on the machine barefoot or just wearing socks.

Forgetting to set up and use the machine’s safety features. Most motorized and hybrid treadmill feature an emergency off switch or button or a safety key attached to a cord which automatically shuts the treadmill off if you fall off or hop off quickly. If it has a safety key or clip, always attach this to your clothing when you start your workout. If your equipment also has other safety features, like codes users must punch in, use or set them according to the machine manual’s instruction.

Increasing the speed or incline of the machine too dramatically. Workout experts say that there are some treadmills that will allow you to hit breakneck speeds in a hurry. When the acceleration is too fast, it could throw you off-balance and even throw you off the treadmill. As such, only increase the machine’s speed and incline gradually, one increment at a time and avoid doing any of the two before your body gets adapted to the increases.

Getting on and off the machine incorrectly. Lastly, getting on and off the treadmill improperly can cause you to get hurt. The correct way to get on this machine is to straddle the belt with one foot on the safety rail on either side. Get on the equipment when the belt is moving slowly. Also, when getting on, hold onto the hand rails until the treadmill reaches its final speed and let go when you feel steady. To get off safely from the machine, if it’s inclined, set the belt back to flat first. Then walk for a few minutes at a lower speed to cool down and help prevent dizziness when you step off. Hold on the handrails when getting off until the treadmill comes to a complete stop.

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Source by Erica L Green

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Table saws are in a wide variety and they range from contractor saws to portable saws. You can get them from the tools department in a department store, home improvement store or at a tool retailers or even woodworking specialty stores. If you are not very sure what table saw is best for your needs you can use online table saw reviews to get relevant details that will help you make the right decision. However, you should also know the features that matter most in a table saw before you even check the reviews so you can make an informed decision. Whether you are looking for a contractor’s, portable, cabinet of hybrid table saw, the features should guide your purchase.

Motor horsepower – It is one of the most important features because it determines what tasks it can handle comfortably. For instance, a table saw that has 1.5 to 2 motor horsepower can operate from a standard household circuit and can cut hardwoods that are up to 2 inches in thickness; you might need more torque for thicker hardwoods.

Flesh sensor – Not all models have this feature and yet it is very important in maintaining safety and reducing injuries during operation. The sensor stops the blade milliseconds after it contacts flesh, reducing extent of injuries. In most cases the brake action causes the blade to drop below table level and shuts down the motor. With such a feature, you only get a nick instead of a severed finger. It is, however a feature that could hike the price, but it is definitely worth it.

Dust collection – The feature makes it possible for you to maintain a clean workshop or working area. Sawdust can mess up your work area and requires cleaning up to keep the area safe, but when you get a table saw that has a dust collection feature; you will not have to worry about the accumulation of sawdust on your floor. A table saw that has a collection bag will also play a role in keeping the air in your workshop clean keeping particles off your lungs as you operate. Your only role would be to empty the bag on a regular basis to keep enjoying the benefits of the feature.

Drive belt – Table saw vibrations are caused largely by the drive belt and you therefore want to check the design of your drive belt before purchasing the table saw. A table saw with a poly-V belt design produces minimal vibrations compared to one that has regular V or wedge belts. Have this in mind or ask about it before you settle for a table saw model.

Kick switch – This is another important safety feature to have on a table saw. It basically is a switch that you can turn on and off using hip motion, foot or knee when it is impossible or challenging to get your hands off the wood piece you are cutting to manually turn the motor on and off. If using hands or removing them from the wood piece creates a safety hazard, then the kick switch comes in handy.

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Source by Jovia D’Souza