/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

JET’s JWL-1220VS Variable Speed Wood Lathe, A Better Lathe for Your Benchtop

[ad_1]

For years JET has been known for producing some of the best mini lathes in the woodworking industry. Building upon the success of these models and developing upon the technology of their most loved machines, JET has taken that standard to an entirely new level of high-performance. The new JWL-1220VS variable speed wood lathe, for example, brings a whole new ball game to your benchtop.

To begin, the lathe has a powerful 3/4-HP motor with variable speed settings. Owing to a sophisticated electronic system and finely machined six-step pulleys, the JWL-1220VS offers continuous speed operation between 270 and 4,200 RPM. Accordingly, the lathe has more than enough muscle to run smooth, strong and consistent throughout each application. Having 5 numerical speed settings, the electronic variable speed system also ensures making very specific RPM settings is simple. Because the motor is mounted directly below the lathe bed, that big-muscle-motor doesn’t get in the way, but it’s easy to access for belt tensioning, maintenance or etc. Tool-free levers on the front of the lathe also make belt tensioning a fast and simple process.

The lathe bed is built well and of heavy-duty cast iron to enhance the stability of the machine and to limit vibration during use. It supports stock up to 12-inches in diameter and 20-inches in length giving you the capacity to handle large projects and, despite being a benchtop machine, the JWL-1220VS can be outfitted with a bed extension (giving you nearly 50-inches between centers) and/or with a rock-solid adjustable stand for greater versatility. Heavy-duty metal handles also contribute to the lathe’s portability.

The JWL-1220VS additionally features a self-ejecting tailstock for safe and simple removal of your tooling and, because the tailstock is also hollow, the removable tip on the live-center allows you to bore holes through your stock as well. The lathe’s centers are well laid out to turn your projects on perfect center and with an easy-to-use spindle lock and 24-position indexing capabilities, the lathe helps users creates all types of ornamentation (like fluting or veining applications) with consistency and total precision. The machine also features an integrated worklight to keep your workpieces well-lit and has rubber-tipped adjustable leveling feet to reduce movement during use.

To ensure you can easily outfit the lathe with both common and specialty accessories, the JWL-1220VS is engineered to be compatible with most popular accessories. The spindle and tailstock accept #2 Morse taper and the spindle nose exterior is threaded with the popular 1 x 8 thread pattern. This makes it simple to find what you need and allows you to keep using any accessories you might already have. Of course, the lathe also includes a full range of accessories like a four-wing spur drive, a superior quality ball bearing live-center, a knockout rod (just in case you need it), 10-inch and 6-inch tool rests, a 3-inch diameter face plate and a sweet pair of goggles.

Ultimately, JET’s JWL-1220VS wood lathe is built tough to deliver optimal longevity and built smart to produce total accuracy. If you’re searching for a high-performance lathe that’s both powerful and compact, there is no better choice than JET’s JWL-1220VS variable speed wood lathe. Nurture your skills and enhance the quality of your results with this versatile, totally superior benchtop lathe.

[ad_2]

Source by Malcolm Haslett

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

Top 7 Compressed Air Energy Saving Tips

[ad_1]

Would you like to reduce electrical costs related to your compressed air system? More than likely – you can. Start by determining your annual compressed air electrical costs by using this formula:

Brake Horse Power X 0.746 X Annual Hours of Operation X KWH (Kilowatt-Hour) Cost (divided by) Motor Efficiency

NOTE: 1 CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) @ 100 PSIG (pound-force per square inch gauge) FOR 8760 HOURS COST $110.00 PER YEAR IN ELECTRICAL COST

Next…follow these Top 7 Compressed Air Energy Saving Tips:

1. Fix your Air Leaks

If you do nothing else – follow this one tip: Find and fix your compressed air leaks. Air leaks are industrys’ “biggest looser”!

The average plant loses 20% to 30% it its compressed air through multiple small air leaks. The money spent on man power and parts to find and fix these leaks is well worth it. Note (a 1/4 inch hole will flow 103 cfm @ 100 psig)

2. Change to Synthetic Lubricants

If you are using petroleum based lubricants, you could experience up to an 8% energy savings by switching to Compressor Synthetic Lubricants. Plus extend equipment life and save on oil changes and disposal cost.

3. Reduce Plant Operating Pressure

If possible – reduce overall plant pressure. Less pressure > Less CFM used > less energy consumed.

TIP: Reduce plant pressure 2 pounds at a time, then test run for minimum 24 hours. If any equipment has issues…then increase pressure 2 pounds until running smoothly again. For every 2 pound pressure reduction -you save 1% of the electrical cost to run the air compressor.

4. Check Differential Pressure on Air Compressor Filters.

Start at the compressor cabinet filter then check the compressor inlet filter.

Note: A dirty inlet filter can cost you 1% to 3 % in additional electrical costs. Why? Because decreased air flow to the compressor inlet valve increases the compression ratios resulting in more run time.

Next check the air/oil separator differential pressure under a full load. A new separator causes a differential pressure drop of approximately 2-3 psig. When your pressure drop reaches 8-10 psig, then it is time to change your separator elements. A dirty separator element can cost you up to 5% in additional electrical cost.

Next change the control air filter element. This often over looked, but still important filter where the controls receive their air signal. A pressure drop here causes the controls to receive the lower pressure signal loading the compressor more and using more electricity.

5. Reduce the Compressor Inlet Temperature

By reducing inlet air temperature 10°F below 70°F, you save 2% on electrical usage. Your benefit increases up to 8% on a 30°F degree day. But increasing the inlet temperature 10°F above 70°F will cost you 2% in additional electrical usage for every 10°F up to 10% at 120°F. (Inlet temperature has very little affect on Lubricated screw compressors)

6. Check Differential Pressure on Compressed Air Line Filters.

Size Compressed Air Filters to be twice (2x) your compressor CFM flow rate. This will lower your pressure drop approximately 2-3 psig and save 1% on energy costs. Elements will last twice (2x) as long and you will save on maintenance costs.

7. Know what quality of compressed air your plant needs.

The cleaner & dryer the compressed air the more energy used.

Check with the manufacturer of your equipment to determine the quality of air needed.

[ad_2]

Source by Tommy McGuire

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

Refrigerant Pump Cavitation

[ad_1]

When dealing with refrigerant pumps, it is important to understand that unlike pumps in other types of systems that are pumping steady state liquids like water or oil, refrigerant pumps are pumping boiling liquid. When a pump that is designed to handle liquids is supplied with a mixture of liquid and gas, it is said to cavitate. Most any pump can tolerate a certain amount of cavitation but it is detrimental if at all extreme.

To understand the complexities involved in pumping refrigerant, one must have a firm grasp of the relationship between pressure and temperature with refrigerants, and by extension, sub cooling.

Simply stated; the boiling temperature of any liquid rises and falls in direct correspondence with any increase or decrease in pressure. The often overlooked dynamic in a refrigeration system is that generally speaking, pressures can fluctuate very rapidly as a result of a compressor coming on or loading up (causing pressure to drop), or an evaporator being brought on the line (causing pressure to rise). The condition that tracks pressure fluctuations but never changes as quickly, is refrigerant temperature.

The supply of liquid for the refrigerant pumps is the pump separator, also referred to as the low pressure receiver (LPR). Under the most ideal conditions the liquid in the LPR would be saturated. This means that its actual temperature is equal to its boiling temperature; however in a working refrigeration system this would almost never be the case. Even a saturated liquid will have some gas bubbles entrained, because the slightest amount of heat will create vapor; however as vapor is released from the liquid it causes an increase in pressure which un-interfered with will raise the boiling temperature and reduce the rate of vapor generation.

Even if the liquid in the LPR is at an actual temperature lower than its boiling point, and therefore not boiling, the possibility of cavitation still exists. The liquid refrigerant must flow through a pipe to get to the pump suction. That pipe will usually be fitted with a valve, possibly a strainer, and some number of fittings, each of which will cause some amount of pressure drop.

A good pump installation incorporates the following practices to ameliorate the effect of entrained gas entering the pumps.

• The LPR and associated piping are well insulated, to limit the amount of ambient heat transmitted into the refrigerant.

• Valves and fittings are sized to create the smallest amount of pressure drop as is practicable for the expected flow rate.

• The pumps are mounted well beneath the liquid level in the LPR, to take advantage of the effect of gravity. The pressure at the inlet of the pump will increase in direct proportion to the height of the “column” of liquid above it.A column of -40°F ammonia weighs approximately.3 PSI per vertical foot, and a column of -40°F R-22 weighs approximately.66 PSI per vertical foot. For comparison, water weighs approximately.5 PSI per vertical foot. If the centerline of the pump is 6 ft. below the liquid level in the LPR, and the refrigerant is R-22 at -40°F, then the pressure at the inlet of the pump will be approximately 4 PSI when the pump is not running, because there is no flow. As soon as the pump is turned on, flow is initiated. There cannot be flow without pressure drop. If the piping is well insulated, and the fittings and valves are sized correctly for minimum restriction, the pressure drop will be slight, as will the resultant boiling. This minor amount of boiling will not interfere with proper operation of the pump.

When the pressure of the refrigerant decreases, the boiling temperature (not the actual temperature) will decrease correspondingly. For example; if the boiling temperature of the refrigerant is -40°, and the actual temperature is also -40°, there will be no boiling. The liquid is said to be saturated. If the pressure is then lowered to a value that corresponds to a boiling temperature of -45°, the refrigerant will immediately boil, because its actual temperature (-40°) is 5° warmer than its boiling temperature (-45). A rapid decrease in pressure will result in violent boiling, making it more likely that cavitation will interfere with correct operation of the pump.

Cavitation will at a minimum, decrease the amount of liquid being delivered to the evaporators as it causes the pump discharge pressure to decrease. If it is severe, the rate of flow will decrease to the point where there is little or no flow of liquid through the pump. If the pump is hermetic, with a canned motor (refrigerant cooled) and refrigerant lubricated bearings, the lack of refrigerant liquid will cause damage or failure if the pump continues to operate. Most refrigerant pumps will be protected by one or more devices that will automatically stop the pump in the event of severe cavitation. The most common is a low differential pressure switch.

With the above in mind, it is important that the suction pressure never be allowed to drop at a rate that will result in the type of violent boiling described above. If the compressor is microprocessor controlled, it will likely have a ramp feature that can limit the rate at which the compressor can load in terms of pressure decrease per unit of time. The specifics of any given installation will determine the rate at which the pressure can be decreased without detrimental cavitation. Start at a conservative rate, such as 1 PSI every minute. This may sound slow, but it means that starting a system with R-22 at 50°F would require about 1 1⁄2 hours to bring to -40°F, which is quite reasonable. It is also helpful to set controls so that compressor loading occurs gradually and unloading occurs more quickly (regardless of ramp settings). For example, set the capacity control so the compressor goes from minimum to 100% over a period of not less than 2 minutes. Set the unloading so the travel from 100% back to minimum takes one minute or less. With these or similar settings, violent boiling will be less likely to occur. When dealing with a 4 hour freeze cycle or an 8 hour chill time, adding compressor capacity slowly does not appreciably affect the refrigerating time required, and the value of the positive effect on the LPR and the refrigerant pumps cannot be overstated.

[ad_2]

Source by Mike M Triage

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

What Are the 3 Types of Dehumidifiers?

[ad_1]

Hot and sultry, muggy and sticky, there’s nothing worse in the summer time than the heaviness of the humidity. In fact, for some states it’s so bad, that you are drenched in moisture just to take a walk to mailbox at the end of your short driveway. And, when that humidity makes its way indoors, the days and nights can seem virtually unbearable. Fortunately, there is a solution. Invented by Willis Haviland Carrier in 1902, dehumidifiers soon became the ideal way to cool one’s home. Over the years the dehumidifier as evolved and today there are 3 main types of dehumidifiers.

All humidifiers work on the same basic principles, though each one varies somewhat based on the type. Like an air conditioner, the dehumidifier uses refrigerant. However, it does not cool the air…it actually warms it slightly which decreases the humidity thus making the room more comfortable. This is done by a fan, hot and cold condenser coils and a water reservoir.

The heat pump dehumidifier is used to pull out water form a building by using a heat pump which works much like an air conditioner pump. A fan is used to move the air across a frigid coil causing the moisture to condense. Then the droplets are collected in a bucket inside the unit. The air is then warmed by a second coil and then released back into the room at a comfortable temperature. The heat pump dehumidifier is considered the best one available.

In large industries, especially those in warmer climates, the most common type is a chemical absorbent dehumidifier. This type uses a chemical drying agent that works with a heat exchange wheel to absorb the water molecules from the air. The process pulls the damp air outside through the vents.

The third type of unit is the dehumidifying ventilator. These work with a sensor controller and an exhaust fan. These are less effective in climates where the humidity is especially high because the ventilators draw outside air into the house. Rather, the dehumidifying ventilator works great in basements but you must pay close attention to how it is working as it can depressurize a room and can cause gas spills…just be sure that if you have a gas furnace that it is properly vented and you will fine.

If you already have a dehumidifier, but it does not seen to be working correctly, there are a few things you can do. First you will want to make sure that it is the right size unit for the space it is cooling; then after you have turned the unit off, check the following:

  • Remove the cover clean the condenser and the evaporator coils.
  • Lubricate the fan motor bearings, if the motor has oil ports.
  • Make sure the humidistat is working properly by testing it with a volt-ohm. Rotate the humidistat’s knob as far as it will turn in either direction. If it reads 0 throughout the process then it is time to replace the unit.

[ad_2]

Source by Janet M Slagell

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

An Introduction To Floor Plans

[ad_1]

A floor plan is a two-dimensional scale drawing of the planning, size and direction of rooms, doors, walls and windows. Normally the plan shows an aerial view. The plan also includes the location of the heating and cooling facilities, electric lines and plumbing.

In order to create a balanced environment it is necessary to define the space and its limitations. These need to be considered before one decides to move into the new space. This might seem a bother, but is worth the time and money in the long run.

A floor plan should be designed to meet the needs of the family. It is best to ensure that there is not much unused space or too little space. Make sure there is enough room for the whole family, for privacy as well as for all kinds of entertainment. While deciding on a floor plan there are some thing that need to be considered. The ideal location for the garage is near the kitchen, because it is easier to transfer recently bought groceries and empty the garbage. A kitchen is also best when located near the dining room, for the easy transfer of food onto the table.

Everybody prefers to have enough space for storage, so ensure there are enough closets. An ideal place for keeping one’s washing machine would be on the top floor next to the bedrooms, so one need not move up and down the stairs. Certain rooms should be located away from heavy noise. Such rooms will be bedrooms and libraries. If the bedroom is above the garage or near a noisy area, one can install special walls and floors to soundproof the room. It is necessary to measure the living area, including the windows, closets, doors and electrical outlets.

Since defining the space is essential in creating a harmonious environment, it is best to plan it accordingly.

[ad_2]

Source by Kent Pinkerton

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

How the Planets Are Aligned

[ad_1]

This is the mathematical story of how our solar system is arranged. Each planet is a specific distance from the next planet. The mean distance between the planets is 1.62 x 10^9 meters. that is basically equal to (PHI)(1 x 10^9) meters; or φ x 1000000000 = 1,682,000,000m

The center circle represents the Sun even though the size is not proportional.

The CAD program would not allow me to use proportionate circles and still be able to view the picture. In fact I had a hard time making small circles. This is because I didn’t know how to use the program correctly at the time.

Right on top of the Sun at the beginning of the spiral is Mercury. The planets go in order from there.

Sun = Center

Distance from preceding planet —— Distance from the Sun

Mercury = Beginning of spiral = 1 @ 58 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Venus = 2nd on spiral = 1.86 @ 108 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Earth = 3rd on spiral = 1.39 @ 149.66 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Mars = 4th on spiral = 1.52 @ 226.82 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Asteroid Belt = 5th on spiral = 1.71 @ 502.66 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Jupiter = 6th on spiral = 1.71 @ 778.5 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Saturn = 7th on spiral = 1.82 @ 1350 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Uranus = 8th on the spiral = 2.01 @ 2880 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Neptune = 9th on spiral = 1.56 @ 4500 x 10^9 meters from the Sun.

Average distance between planets = 1.62 x 10^9 meters

Our solar system is basically arranged by using the Golden Mean φ = (PHI) = 1.618 as a base measure to separate the planets. the spiral is actually a dual spiral consisting of φ, and a Fibonacci sequential pattern. The Fibonacci sequence is the male aspect, and φ is the female aspect of the spiral.

Beginning with Venus we start to add the sequential distances. We do not include Mercuries distance because it is the first 1 planet and the second 1in the Fibonacci sequence.

Sun = 1 + Mercury = 1; so Venus = 2 where we start the count of all the planets distances from the Sun.

Sum of distance between planets —– Fibonacci and φ^x – 1 sequential order.

Mercury = 1; Fib seq.= 1; φ^1 – 1 =.618; difference =.382

Venus = 1.86; Fib seq. = 2; φ^2 – 1 = 1.618; difference =.14;.242

Earth = 3.25; Fib seq. = 3; φ^3 – 1 = 3.24; difference =.25;.01

Mars = 4.77; Fib seq. = 5; difference =.23

Asteroid Belt = 6.48; φ^4 – 1 = 5.85; difference =.63

Jupiter = 8.19; Fib seq. = 8; difference =.19

Saturn = 10; φ^5 – 1 = 10.09; difference =.09

Uranus = 12.01 = φ^5 + 1 = 12.09; difference =.08

Neptune = 13.57; Fib seq. = 13; difference =.57

φ^6 – 1 = 16.94

Fib seq. = 21

φ^7 – 1 = 28.03 = Lunar cycle in days; actual = 28.077 days

I haven’t done the work to determine where Pluto, the Kipper belt, or the Oort cloud reside in the sequence, but I’m sure that they fit in very closely, like the rest of the planets do.

Start with the center circle (Sun) and go 1 unit up. From this point we shift 90 degrees per planet and mark the position at each point. The first number you see after the planets names directly above are the numbers used to plot the points of the spiral.

continue with the 90 degree rotation of the points and you will find that it ends at approximately 4.25 revolutions or basically φ^3 revolutions.

This is the true orientation of our solar system. Even though the planets are moving and rarely align themselves in this exact sequence, the actual distance between them is what is relative to the argument. The mean distance varies do to the elliptical orbits, but not by much on the cosmic scale.

[ad_2]

Source by David J Bills

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

Insulated Bucket Trucks – What They Do and How They Can Help You

[ad_1]

Insulated bucket trucks were created in an effort to help protect workers from electrocution. This applies to linemen who may be working on utility lines such as telephone poles or transformers, etc. These jobs have the added danger of not only being located in high places, but working near extremely high voltage lines. This is why there was a need to create something that could additionally protect these workers and reduce the risk of electric shock.

There are three main aspects of an insulated bucket truck that can provide protection from electric shock. These are the most important components to maintain and keep within the standards as defined by ANSI:

Bucket Liner – This will protect the portion completely inside the liner, such as a person standing. Once the electricity touches the liners, it will become ineffective to anything inside the liner.

Upper Boom Insulating Section – This will prevent the flow of electricity from the boom tip through the boom elbow only.

Lower Boom Insert – This piece will provide a section of insulation between the elbow and the truck chassis.

A common misconception is that the rubber from your utility truck tires will provide shock protection. This is false as they were not built to provide electrical insulation. Dirt and salt that accrue in the tire tread can actually act as a conductor of electricity. Your body is an even better conductor of electricity, so you should never touch a bucket truck that is in contact with electrical lines even if you are operating with controls that are wooden. Here are some effects of an electrical current on the body:

Freezing Current – 5-25ma – can cause an involuntary muscle spasm

Knockout Current – 25-100ma – unconsciousness may occur and breathing could stop

Nerve Block Current – 100-200ma – your heart could stop and you would almost certainly need CPR

Frying Current – over 200ma – this will literally cook the part of the body that the current came in contact with. Death is almost always instantaneous if the path of the current is through the chest.

It’s a good idea to always keep these factors in mind when working near electricity. Additionally, you should consider the humidity of your current surroundings as well as atmospheric electricity such as lightning. You should never be working in a bucket truck, near power lines or not, if there is a lightning storm taking place.

Hopefully this article has helped you to better understand what an insulated bucket truck is and why workers can benefit from them. Keep in mind that you should only operate or use an insulated bucket truck if you have had approved training. It is not intended as a substitute for OSHA or ANSI standards, so, again, please make sure you have the proper training and certifications, where applicable, before use.

[ad_2]

Source by Meredith Nunnally

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

Heaty and Cooling Foods

[ad_1]

When a Westerner hears the term ‘heaty’ or ‘heatiness’, he/she would probably ask what it is. In Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), this is a common concept related to the balancing of ‘yin’ and ‘yang’. Most people, especially the Chinese in Asian countries such as China, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singaporeans are familiar with this notion of heaty (yang) (as opposed to cooling or yin) as it is a Chinese form of expressing certain set of symptoms or sensations often associated with emotional or physical reactions such as:

o Feelings of irritability;

o Short temper;

o Fever;

o Constipation;

o Flushed face or cheeks;

o Dark yellow urine;

o Sore throat;

o Nose bleed;

o Outbreak of pimples and acne;

o Rashes;

o Mouth ulcers;

o Indigestion.

Excessive “cold” energy in the body, on the contrary, will make us feel weak, lethargic, tired and restless.

The constitution of each person is influenced by congenital factors as well as the acquired lifestlye (e.g diet, stress level, amount of exercise and sleep, living environment), and this varies from person to person. In other words, different foods act upon the human body in different ways and affect our state of health. The body’s metabolism, functioning of organs and organ structure all combine to determine our susceptibility to these heaty and cooling effects of foods.

Examples of cooling and heaty foods:

Cool (yin) Foods:

Bamboo shoot, banana, bitter gourd, clam, crab, grapefruit, lettuce, persimmon, salt, seaweed, star fruit, sugar cane, water chestnut, watermelon, lotus root, cucumber, barley, bean curd, chicken egg white, marjoram, oyster, pear, peppermint, radish, strawberry, tangerine, and yogurt, broccoli, cauliflower, zuccini, corn, tomatoes, pineapple, turmeric.

Neutral (balanced yin and yang) Foods:

Corn, abalone, apricot, beef, beetroot, black fungus, carp, carrot, celery, chicken egg yolk, cuttlefish, duck, fig, honey, kidney bean, lotus fruit and seed, milk, olive, oyster, papaya, pork, potato, pumpkin, radish leaf, red bean, plum, sunflower seed, sweet rice, sweet potato, white fungus, yellow soybean, brussels sprouts, snow peas, sweet potato, taro, dates, figs, raspberries, raisins, sage, rosemary, thyme, brown rice, apple.

Heaty (yang) Foods:

Pepper, cinnamon bark, ginger, soybean oil, red and green pepper, chicken, apricot seed, brown sugar, cherry, chestnut, chive, cinnamon twig, clove, coconut, coffee, coriander (Chinese parsley), date, dillseed, eel, garlic, grapefruit peel, green onion, guava, ham, leaf mustard, leek, longan, mutton, nutmeg, peach, raspberry, rosemary, shrimp, spearmint, sweet basil, tobacco, vinegar, walnut, jackfruit, durian, leek, shallots, spring onion, , apricots, blackberries, black currant, mangoes, peaches, cherry, mandarin orange, grape.

How a food is prepared also matters. E.g Beef is considered as neutral, but if you have it deep fried or grilled, it would be considered as heaty. In addition, there are some interesting broad guidelines to determine whether a certain food is heaty or cooling:

Heaty/yang foods:

o grow under the hot sun;

o are sweet;

o have lots of fats;

o rich in sodium;

o are hard, dry or spicy.

Cold/yin foods:

o grow in little sunshine;

o are salty;

o are lean;

o rich in potassium;

o soft and wet;

The heatiness and cooling effect of foods refer to their capacity to generate sensations – either hot or cold in our body. They do not refer to the state of the food but its effect on our bodies. For example, tea is a cooling food. This means that it generates cold energy in our body. To seek a balance in diet, we can classify food as predominantly yin or yang. Hence, if you eat predominantly yin foods, your body will be capable of producing only cold energy, in contrast, eating predominantly yang foods produces hotter energy. If a person suffers from cold rheumatism, eating foods with a warm or hot energy would be helpful. If a person suffers from acne eruptions due to consumption of fried foods, it is beneficial to eat cooling foods to counter heatiness and relieve symptoms.

The concept of heatiness is not meaningful or relevant in the western medicine paradigm. However, it is believed that there is some parallel to Acid (heaty) and alkaline (cooling) balance, or protons and positive charges (heaty) and cooling (electrons and negative charges). Medicine evolves. Conventional medical doctors in the west has long started to integrate and learn about alternative treatments or medicines and incorporate them into their practice. Today they believe that these new medical approaches are beneficial and effective in many ways.

Source: www.benefits-of-honey.com/heaty.html

[ad_2]

Source by Ruth Tan

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

Educational Christmas Gifts for Kids

[ad_1]

Do you want your kids to get more out of their play time than just fun? Obviously, fun is good but if your children can continue to learn while they have fun then it’s so much the better and there are loads of educational Christmas gifts for kids available.

Educational Toys for Boys and Girls

Cooking is one of the most important skills children can learn which will enable them to feed themselves for the rest of their lives. Learning to cook at an early age means they will always love it so why not start your kids with a play kitchen. These sophisticated toys contain all the essentials; fridge/freezer, cooker, microwave and dishwasher as well as a sink, pans and spatulas. Supplement the kitchen with food from the deli set or the ice cream shop. Take the opportunity to teach the kids how to clean up after cooking as well and you may find you have the next great chef in your family.

Science toys for kids are excellent educational toys and will spark your child’s interest in science subjects from as young as five years old. There are various kits available including one which enables children to learn about the human body using hands-on experiments, games and exercises.

For older children, the crystals, rocks and minerals kit may get them interested in geology. The kit contains real rock and quartz specimens and the children can grow three different types of crystals.

There are two grades of technology and electronics kits; the first, for kids age 10 and upwards, teaches how to put together simple circuits and how to build and repair sensors. The second, for children over 12, goes into more detail of basic electronic components and provides an introduction to more advanced components. Kids will learn how to follow a circuit diagram and how to create circuits from the components provided. Budding electrical engineers will find this an invaluable grounding.

Educational Toys for Toddlers and Babies

The Busy Ball Popper is ideal for both babies and toddlers to learn colours and manual dexterity. Babies will love to watch the colourful balls running down the spiral track and popping out the top and toddlers will have even more fun chasing the balls. This toy also features fun music with 8 upbeat songs to keep the fun going.

The Endangered Species Playset teaches children to recognise and learn about seven of the world’s endangered animals with and storage pouch showing the continents. Children can learn where to place the animals on their home contents.

For three years old and upwards the Deluxe Workshop encourages hand eye coordination and includes a tool chest and storage jars to promote logical thinking and tidiness. Tools are battery driven drill with interchangeable bits, screws, nuts, hammer, saw, pliers, wrench and screwdriver. Instructions are included for 4 projects.

Play is an important part of a child’s development, teaching life skills as well as motor skills and educational toys provide interesting and inventive opportunities for play.

[ad_2]

Source by Ella McGinley

/ By edd / spiral-freezers/ / 0 Comments

The Process of Evaporative Air Cooling – How Does It Work?

[ad_1]

The principle of evaporative air cooling is the best idea to think of the air as a type of sponge. An air comes into water; it will absorb and becomes humid air.

This method is the best way for the cooling purposes. It is similar to breeze flowing over a lake and this breeze lowers the temperature and it has helped to relax cooling effect on to the people. This method cools the air by means of the evaporation of water. Where the water evaporates to the air, then the result will come to a mixture of air and water molecules. This will requires heat and it is taken from the air molecules stopping the actual temperature of the air. The maximum humidity level becomes sixty percent or less the temperature decreases. It will help people to feel more comfortable. In dryer climates, the temperature decreases largely because of the lower humidity, heavy evaporations will occur. A great evaporative air cooler provides the biggest surface area over the air that can travel and evaporate the water.

When used for cooling purposes, the cooler should not be used in detached spaces and it must be kept level and there can be water in the tank. The rooms should have to well-equip with doors and windows because the free air will flow through the room and it keeps the room cool. An evaporative air cooler operates best when you have placed the nearby window. The free air is filled on to cooler and the cooler circulates in the room and exits through the door. If the maximum cooling purpose effect is felt when a person is in the flow or air coming out of the cooler. These coolers can be used to humidify dry air during the weather of cooled seasons. Used for humidity, the doors and windows should have to be kept in close. This will allow the humidity air to accumulate on the surface.

This cooler is not an air conditioner and it does not use a refrigerant gas and compressor. Once you should not expect an evaporative air cooler to operate as effectively as refrigerated air conditioning. The benefits of this cooler over refrigerated air conditioning are low purchase cost, maximum portability, low electricity usage and it has no refrigerant gas. These coolers can be only used in the best natural ventilation and the cold does not make cooling efficiency difference in an evaporative cooler.

[ad_2]

Source by Devendra Pandey