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What Are the Benefits of the Max Titan OU Mechanical Suspension?

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There are many truck parts that a truck owner needs to ensure are in good condition at all times and a mechanical suspension is one of those. It’s always advisable to invest in the best truck parts for your fleet. Quality leads to longevity and that leads to long run cost savings. When it comes to the Max Titan O.U. Mechanical Suspension, it is clear to see why it is at the forefront of quality truck parts.

Here are the benefits of the Max Titan O.U. Mechanical Suspension for trucks and trailers.

  • This truck part has an increased strength of up to 20% when compared to normal mechanical suspensions. This makes it more durable and reliable.
  • It is up to 15% lighter in weight than its normal counterpart, so it doesn’t add much extra weight to the vehicle.
  • It has one type of hanger for both the front link and the rear link so it eliminates the confusion between the over-slung and underslung hangers.
  • On the tri-axle and rear link the chassis height is reduced by 70 millimetres. This has a huge knock-on effect and other benefits for the truck owner.
  • It reduces the weight of the trailer which has a huge cost saving impact.
  • Less material is used in the making of the Max Titan O.U. Mechanical Suspension, which means that there are less manufacturing costs. The benefit of this is further cost savings.
  • For the end user, it has an extra payload per trip advantage of up to half a ton. This is beneficial to both the end user and the truck owner.
  • Keeping stock becomes easier to manage as you only need to stock one type of hanger as opposed to always having to stock F Hangers and J Hangers.

The Max Titan O.U. Mechanical Suspension is a technological advancement for truck and trailer parts due to its unique design and capabilities. This design includes one type of hanger that can be used in both over-slung and underslung trailer applications, which is unheard of in the trucking community. Furthermore, it is made of a high tensile alloy that is lightweight and adds minimal weight to the vehicle. These benefits lead to overall better truck handling, fleet management, stock control as well as added cost savings in both the short and the long run. These cost savings extend to the trucking company’s end user also. It is a formidable and powerful truck part that is making waves in the industry.

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Source by Zaid Majam

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The Benefits of Wet Rooms

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When it comes to designing your bathroom you have lots of options. Typically a bathroom contains about three key features. A bathroom will have a toilet, a bathtub or shower stall or tub with a showerhead and a sink. However, as bathroom design as changed, so have the options as to the choice of the design. The design choices aren’t just about the colors of your fixtures or the type of flooring you put in, but rather are changing in terms of the actual functionality of the room itself. People are now putting in wet rooms rather than your standard bathroom.

One of the greatest benefits to a wet room is the space saving design of it all. With a wet room the entire bathroom really acts as the shower. This means that you will not have the standard tub. Not having a tub in your bathroom can save you a considerable amount of space. Even if space is not an issue in your home this new bathroom design where the shower is part of the room is just a modern look for a bathroom that changes the way the room works and its functionality.

Another great benefit to using wet rooms design is the ease of cleaning that it offers. With this type of design there are no enclosures for the shower. Instead the room is designed so that the water is all drained into one area. The floor in the shower area will all slope over so slightly to the drain in order to remove the water from the room as you shower. This is a twist on normal bathroom design where the enclosure does the job of containing the water so it goes down the drain. The lack of enclosures and the fact that the entire floor is even makes it quite a simple task to clean the majority of the bathroom.

One of the greatest benefits to this type of design though is just the look of the design itself. When you decide to have this sort of a bathroom installed you have the opportunity to really make a statement with your style. You will need to pick tile and fixtures that match the tile and the look and feel of the room. With this type of a bathroom you will need to pick a tile that you are prepared to see on every wall and the floor. The stunning statement that tile can make will have your guests talking in no time.

So, between the space saving design and the time saving cleaning features you should be won over and if you aren’t then just consider how you’ll have all the neighbors talking about your one of a kind bathroom.

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Source by Vince Samios

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Common Air Conditioner Problems You Must Know About

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Summer is on the precipice of arrival. It is that time of the year that you wake your air conditioners from their deep slumbers-that is, if they work as just air conditioners. However, after this long a period of inactivity, a number of problems can take root that can become difficult to deal with down the road. Therefore, it is important to check your AC units with a careful eye before using them for the first time after a winter hiatus.

Here are some common air conditioner problems you must know about.

Indoor Water Leakage

If there is water leaking from the indoor unit on your air conditioner, that is the first sign, and probably the only sign you will get, of indoor water leakage. Now, the main cause for this leakage is the clogging up of the condensate drain of the machine.

Many Algae or Fungi that prefer the cold of the ACs can create such a buildup and when there is no space, the water that comes out of the AC can burst into the wall. A broken condensate pump could also lead to this leakage.

There can also be outdoor leakages which you can easily identify with one look at the exterior or exhaust of the AC.

AC Refrigerant Leak

The Freon, otherwise more commonly known as the AC refrigerant, cools the air inside your air conditioner. As per its name, it is the AC refrigerant that is actually responsible for cooling your house or wherever the AC is placed in. The refrigerant can weaken over time and leaks may occur, thereby reducing its cooling power and ultimately that of your AC. Apart from a malfunctioning AC, you will have one that is harmful to your home’s environment on your hand.

Dirtied Up AC Filter

This problem is perhaps the most common of them all. The first thing, in fact, that people do without having to contact an expert or AC repairman is to check for dust or dirt build up in the AC’s filter. You can easily tell with a look or a swipe of your finger. If there is too much dirt and dust, you need to have your filter taken out and blown with a vacuum cleaner or dust blower.

Your AC will not turn on or produce cold air should your air filter not be clean.

Malfunctioning Fan

If there were a list, a malfunctioning AC fan would come right under a dusty AC filter.

The exterior or exhaust of an AC pulls warmth from the inside of a house to the outside by means of a fan situated on the inside of the exterior. This fan, along with many other parts of an AC, is a crucial piece of the puzzle; should it fail to function properly, the AC might overheat and cause tripping, damaging the AC altogether and giving room for internal damage.

Some other problems that can be found are electric control failure and the freezing of the evaporator coil. Both these and the problems mentioned up above have fixes that you can refer to repairmen for.

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Source by Mike Petty

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The History and Future of Window Cleaning From a Window Cleaner’s Perspective

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For as long as glass has been used in window systems it has been necessary to clean it. The first modern development in window cleaning was the squeegee. The very first squeegee was used by fisherman, it was a wooden bladed tool called a squilgee used to clean fish guts etc off their boat decks. This was probably the inspiration for the first window cleaners blade called the Chicago squeegee.

The Chicago squeegee was used in the early 1900s by cleaning professionals. It was a bulky tool with 12 screws which all required loosening to change the two pink blades. In the U.S.A, an Italian immigrant by the name of Ettore Steccone patented the modern squeegee in 1936. Initially he had to give these away to sell the concept. People quickly realised this tool was superior to the Chicago squeegee and the Ettore company was born. Ettore are still considered the leading manufacturer of window cleaning equipment today with an annual turnover of millions of dollars.

Up until the early 1990s window cleaners were still using the squeegee as their preferred choice, until the arrival of pure water fed pole cleaning systems. These systems use deionised, purified water fed through long poles which brush and rinse the dirt away, drying naturally to leave no streaks, smears or spots. The poles are usually made from glass fibre or carbon fibre, which can reach heights of 70 ft allowing operators to clean tall buildings from the safety of the ground. These systems are not only much safer they also keep the windows cleaner for longer and are now considered the superior choice for many different applications within the industry. Most commercial cleaning companies prefer to use this system particularly since the introduction of tighter health and safety laws governing ladders.

Some companies are currently developing robotic window cleaning systems but at present these are not widespread and I think it will be some time until we see these commonly used within the industry. Self cleaning glass has been developed by Pilkington and other glass manufacturers. A thin layer of titanium oxide is applied to the surface of the glass which has a photocatalytic reaction with the suns UV rays causing the breakdown of dirt. This reaction also makes the glass hydrophilic, which means rain does not form water droplets on the glass, it creates a curtain effect instead helping to remove the broken down dirt particles more effectively. This technology certainly ensures the windows stay much cleaner but it is no substitute for a proper window cleaning service which will leave the glass crystal clear and gleaming.

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Source by Mark James Meaney

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What Are the Phenolic Foam Advantages Over Traditional Insulation Materials?

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For many years the galvanized sheets of iron had been used as insulation materials for HVAC systems. However foams such as the phenolic foam are more effective. This foam has two application types the foam-in-application and the panel or board form. In choosing this type of foam for use in HVAC system for a home or office building, it can be beneficial to know its different advantages over regular or traditional insulation materials.

Both types of this foam have many advantages over the regular insulation products. The following are just some of the renowned advantages of using traditional insulation materials.

1. The structural strength. The strength to density ratio of this foam is very high as well as its compressive strength. Panels of this type of foam having density of about 80 kilogram per cubic meter (kg/m3) can be used for structural support for up to 64 tons per m2.

2. Thermal conductivity. The low thermal conductivity of this foam is attributed also to its close cell structure as well as the presence of gases. Its thermal performance also allows utilization of thinner panels without sacrificing the low conductivity.

3. Moisture penetration. The moisture resistance of this foam is also high and can be attributed to three things:

a. Water absorption is very low, it appears only on the part wherein the insulation is defaced.

b. Water vapor permanence is low making water intrusion nearly impossible

c. And, it is non-wicking. In case of water intrusion, the water is easily confined to the entry point and does not compromise the entire system.

4. Chemical Resistant. Phenolic foam has also inert and stable nature. Phenolic foams had been widely used in food preparation installation since it contains no fibers. High concentration solutions of both acid and alkali can cause discoloration and swelling in the insulation’s surface.

5. Fire resistant. They have low spread quality when caught by fire. The aluminum facing usually adds to its fire resistance. It has also low smoke emission, low to no amount of toxic gas emission and no dripping of insulation during the pyrolysis.

6. High Range of temperature. This works in a large range of temperature from – 1800C to +1200C.

7. Environment friendly. Phenolic foams are CFC (chlorofluorocarbon) and HCFC (hydro chlorofluorocarbon) free. These substances may react with the oxygen in the air and form gaseous by-products that depletes the ozone layer in the atmosphere increasing the effect of greenhouse gases.

The phenolic foam foamed-in-insulation has rather high R-value of R-4.8 per inch for a foamed-in insulation, and only utilizes air as its foaming agent. However, it possesses a major drawback that it is often not entertained during planning of insulation. Its shrinkage after curing can go up to 2%.

It is always important to note that may some advantages can be a disadvantage if not properly applied. These various advantages of using the phenolic foam, however still lie on various details such as layout of the building, climate of home’s location and budget of course. It is needless to point out that in order to maximize this advantages, it is wise to ask help in professionals in planning the home’s insulation systems.

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Source by Allan Esposo

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Choosing a Karate Uniform

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What’s in a Karate Uniform?

If you’re going to be doing karate for a long time, a good quality Gi is a good investment. However how do you define “good quality”? There are a surprising number of variables when choosing a karate uniform which can affect whether if it right for you. Most of them the average person probably won’t think twice about – there’s nothing wrong with going to the nearest sports shop, finding the right one for your height and wearing it for a while to see how it feels, but if you want one to last a while which you enjoy wearing, it’s worth weighing a few things up.

Terms Gi, karategi, karatedogi or uniform may be used. Dogi refers to Gis in general and not necessarily those used exclusively for karate.

Sizing

The most basic aspect of Gi sizing is the height in cm (used for European Gis), though sizing is also dependent on weight and other varying dimensions. Gis in Japan are given a number instead of a height measurement; the numbers correspond to the approximate heights shown in the table below. These numbers may be important if ordering from a Japanese source. Note these sizes also depend on the manufacturer! Care must also be taken because the Gi can shrink, particularly after hot or repeated washing, and Gis from different manufacturers shrink to different extents. It is common to buy a slightly oversized Gi to allow for shrinkage. Shureido give the size after shrinkage because they shrink the material themselves to make sizing easier for the customer, although there may still be a small percentage of additional shrinkage. It is worth checking whether the manufacturer’s size refers to pre- or post- shrinkage for that particular Gi and whether anyone else you know, or on the internet, can tell you what degree of shrinkage to expect.

Here is a sample chart showing conversion between the Japanese size and the corresponding approximate height of the individual.

The list below is in the format:

Japanese Gi Size = Suitable for Approximate Height (cm) = Equivalent Height (Feet / Inches)

000 = 110 = 3ft 7ins

00 = 120 = 3ft 11ins

0 = 130 = 4ft 3ins

0.5 = 135 = 4ft 5ins

1 = 140 = 4ft 7ins

1.5 = 145 = 4ft 9ins

2 = 150 = 4ft 11ins

2.5 = 155 = 5ft 1ins

3 = 160 = 5ft 3ins

3.5 = 165 = 5ft 5ins

4 = 170 = 5ft 7ins

4.5 = 175= 5ft 9ins

5 = 180 = 5ft 11ins

5.5 = 185 = 6ft 1ins

6 = 190 = 6ft 3ins

6.5 = 195 = 6ft 5ins

7 = 200 = 6ft 7ins

7.5 = 205 = 6ft 9ins

8 = 210 = 6ft 11ins

For those with non-standard body dimensions, jackets and pants may be purchased separately. Many of the top manufacturers offer size customisation, with many different modifiable dimensions which may be specified upon ordering. For the trousers you may specify length, waist circumference, diameter / circumference at the top and bottom of the leg and the distance between the top of the pants and where they split to the legs. For the jacket the height, length of the arms, length of the central part of the jacket and the circumference / diameter of the arm piece near the shoulder and wrists may be varied. Customisation obviously adds to the cost of the Gi.

Material

Cheaper Gis often use cheap polyester / cotton blends. More expensive Gis are manufactured from traditional pure cotton which is more likely to shrink in the wash and more likely to crease than a cheap blended material but absorbs more sweat is stiffer, holding away from the body so as to be more breathable. Some Gis use brushed cotton for softness / comfort. There are high-end polyester cotton blends such as the Shureido New-Wave line of Gis designed to give the positive properties of both – less need for ironing, less shrinkage, wicks away sweat as it is absorbent and breathes well due to holding itself away from the body.

Weight

The weight of a Gi is given in either in ounces or as a number of the canvas “numbered duck” (it is more common to use this in Japan and will be encountered if ordering from a Japanese manufacturer). “Canvas” and “duck” are often used interchangeably; “duck” is derived from the Dutch “doek” referring to a canvas used for sailors’ clothing.

The use of ounces as a weight indicator stems from industry weights given to duck cotton. It refers to the weight of the cloth per square yard and does not indicate as much about the quality of the material as the duck number. A 10 ounce canvas is not the same as a #10 canvas. When the rating is given in ounces it normally refers to “single fill” canvas – single fibres used in the threads of the horizontal axis of the weave, which are thicker fibres than those used in a #10 canvas.

A Gi often has duck #10 or #11 (though in the industry #11 is rarely used nowadays). To understand what the numbers mean requires detailed explanation. If a piece of cloth measuring 36 inches x 22 inches weighs less than 19 ounces it is called numbered duck. The duck number is calculated by subtracting the weight of the 36 x 22 inch piece, in ounces, from 19. Hence the numbers are inversely proportional to the weight – a heavier piece of cloth has a lower number.

In addition to the weight of cloth per square yard, the numbers are also indicative of the likely thread count of that piece of material (more threads in the “warp” or vertical axis of the cloth and more threads in the “fill” or horizontal axis of the cloth). The thread count is the number of threads used per square inch – higher numbered canvasses have a higher thread count – more and finer threads per square inch which because the threads are closer together, means you are less likely to feel them against the skin – increasing the comfort, suppleness and durability of the material. The greater thread count is achieved by using finer fibres.

Finally the yarn count is also roughly indicated by the canvas number. Yarn count in real terms is the number of threads stretching 840 yards needed to give 1 English lb of weight. For English cotton – if the yarn count is 1 then a thread strand stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in weight. If the yarn count is 2 then two threads stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in weight – hence the threads / yarns must be finer; the higher the number, the more fibres stretching 840 yards would be needed to give 1lb weight.

It is an indicator of thickness of single threads. Higher yarn counts indicate finer threads and fewer fibres wound together to form a single thread. Higher canvas numbers have a higher yarn count and thus use finer threads.

Yarn count is quoted as x/y.

X is a number which indicates how fine each fibre of the material is, a higher number means a finer fibre was used.

Y is the number of individual fibres wound / plied together. 2 fibres plied together becomes a single yarn, the yarn would be twice as thick but for 1 lb of the new yarn, you would only need half the length.

Note that the first number, X, refers to the individual fibres in the yarn and not the resultant plied yarn e.g. 100/2 is 2 fibres with yarn count 100 being plied together, resulting in a thread with a 50 count.

Note the unit length (i.e. 840 yards for English cotton) varies for different fibres and spinning systems.

So a higher number means a lighter garment per square yard, a higher thread count and finer threads.

Duck #11 = 8oz for a 36 x 22 inch piece = 13.09oz per square yard, used for some karate Gis

Duck #10 = 9oz for a 36 x 22 inch piece = 14.73 oz per square yard, used for some karate Gis. Other examples of uses of canvas with this duck include tote bags, luggage, shoe uppers and shower curtains.

Lightweight Gis

Perhaps 6oz or 8oz, these are often the least expensive (though not always – the type of material, design etc. also has a bearing – for example the Shureido Mugen-Fighter is a very lightweight and thin Gi used for kumite and is one the most expensive uniforms of the Shureido brand). It is not uncommon to have a number of karate Gis and lightweight ones are often chosen for kumite competition for freedom of movement. Other examples of lightweight high-quality kumite Gis include the Tokaido NST and the Hirota Pinack.

These will not last as long as heavier Gis, the rate of wear being dependent on the amount and content of training – particularly physical contact and grappling. They tear more easily and wear thin from prolonged use.

In terms of warmth, the cheaper polyester / cotton blends which soak up little sweat, and despite the lighter weight can leave you feeling hot, uncomfortable (as the Gi sticks to the body) and dripping with sweat. More expensive Gis are often pure cotton or more advanced polyester / cotton blends which breathe well (i.e. stay away from the body) and allow sweat to evaporate quickly. On the positive side, they are easier to iron and more resistant to creasing than pure cotton.

Cheaper lightweight uniforms are ideal for beginners or those who are unsure how long they will continue with karate; the more expensive ones are suitable for kumite competition.

Medium Weight Gis

Maybe 10oz or 12oz, these are more resistant to use than a lightweight Gi and tend to last longer. Although if worn when standing stationary they would be slightly warmer due to the thicker material, when training they soak up more sweat and can leave you feeling cooler.

Heavyweight Gis

Maybe 14oz, 16oz or even higher, these are often marketed as “Ultimate” karate uniforms (as an example) for the dedicated / serious karateka. They are more expensive and this transparent marketing trick is designed to appeal to vain karate students who subconsciously or otherwise believe that the uniform will make them perform better. That said, a good heavyweight Gi can last a long time and is worth choosing carefully. They absorb a lot of sweat and due to the stiffness of the cloth hold themselves away from the skin over larger areas of the body than lighter weight uniforms – yet their greater power of absorption means that when they do touch the skin, they can “wick away” beads of sweat and absorb them in to the cloth. The downside of heavier uniforms is that they can take longer to dry and are harder to iron; a possible exception is the Shureido ‘New Wave’ range of Gis which advertise ‘no ironing required’ and a fast drying time due to the polyester / cotton blend. Aesthetically these Gis do look very good.

Due to the nature of the canvas, they don’t scrunch as easily as more lightweight Gis and so require more care when transporting them – they take up more room in your bag or require a separate bag altogether! Examples of high quality heavyweight Gis include the Hirota #163, the Tokaido Ultimate (SAW) and the Shureido NW-3.

Some prefer a lighter weight Gi for training and a heavier Gi for more formal occasions such as assessment and competition. In a perfect world a Gi would be versatile and suit both circumstances.

Traditional / Standard Cut vs. Tournament Cut

Traditional cut uniforms have full length sleeves and legs whereas tournament cut uniforms have shorter sleeves and legs, perhaps 80% of full length. The reasoning behind tournament cut is that it is supposedly easier to see the arms make contact with an opponent in kumite, making it easier for the referee to score and more likely that you will score the point; it may also give a greater feeling of freedom to the limbs and it is more difficult for the opponent to grab hold of the Gi. Which cut to choose depends on what you are most likely to use the Gi for.

Drawstrings or Elasticated Waist

Gi pants come with different types of waist fastening. Some are elasticated – which are easier to remove (useful for going to the toilet or dressing / undressing quickly!) but if too tight may affect breathing – though this is debatable; the effect may be insignificant. Some use the more traditional drawstrings which can be adjusted to suit but are more time-consuming to fasten and unfasten; they are less likely to affect breathing, however and can reduce the likelihood of the pants being pulled down, particularly important during grappling / kumite. Some pants have both elastic and drawstring on the waist which means they are time-consuming to fasten and may affect breathing but tightness may be adjusted according to preference. The jacket of the uniform covers the fastening so this will not be visible to others and is simply a matter of preference.

Specific Brands

It would be difficult to dispute that the top 3 brands are Hirota, Shureido and Tokaido (in no particular order). These are the most popular brands, particularly with high level instructors and offer good quality and consistency of manufacture. Other popular brands include Kamikaze (now branded as Tokon in the U.S. and Kaiten in the U.K), Ronin, Century, Blitz and Adidas.

Colour, Markings and Embroidery

The traditional colour is pure white with no markings; white is most widely available. Some white Japanese cottons give a bluish hue / tint to the canvas which lasts varying amounts of time dependent on washing.

Colour and markings are in a certain respect a taste preference, though some clubs favour one colour over another and request that their students wear the same. It does help to fit in to one particular club and can serve as an identifier as with any uniform to indicate that that person is a member of a particular club. It could be said that one should be wary of the importance an instructor places on colour and markings – unusual styles are sometimes synonymous with fake instructors and rare / invented / hybrid styles of karate.

The second most popular colour after white is black, though Gis are available in many different colours and with many different markings; obviously the colour has no bearing on ability.

Embroidery can often be done on request at the time of ordering the Gi; the karateka’s name or the name of their club in Japanese lettering are popular choices. This may also be done independently though it is worth choosing a reputable company to do this as it is quite expensive and will change the appearance of your Gi; Japanese lettering would also be much more difficult to order independently.

Adverts

When a Gi is purchased for a club or competitor by a company, it is common for the company to include some advertising on the Gi. Some may feel this detracts from the appearance of the Gi and is non-traditional, but it does not affect skill and is quite commonplace in competition.

Badges are often worn (which may be sewn on to the Gi) when a karateka is representing a club or organisation.

All manufacturers generally place a small tag somewhere on the outside of the jacket and / or pants – this only serves as advertising when the Gi is viewed up close as it is not normally noticeable nor legible from a distance.

Snap

This is an aesthetic property of a Gi which is unnecessary when karate is viewed as a tool of self defence to be used only when necessary. It appeals to the vanity of some karateka yet it does have some useful purpose; whilst the presence of the snap does not indicate that the technique was performed correctly, often a well executed technique will produce the snap as a result, providing some form of affirmation of success. It is therefore a popular feature of a uniform when performing kata / demonstrations of basics – well executed techniques accompanied by a snapping sound may contribute to the overall impression given to the judge.

Snap is achieved by multiple rows of stitching on the extremities of the limb parts of the uniform, stiff / heavy canvas and sometimes by the use of starch (which increases the stiffness of the material and adds to its weight). It really is no substitute for good technique.

Washing

The amount of washing your Gi will require depends on training intensity / duration and how sweaty you are! The hems and particularly the collar and cuffs pick up grime from your skin quite quickly and regular washing helps to reduce this. Yellow sweat marks may also be removed by washing. To reduce shrinkage, particularly with pure cotton Gis, a low temperature setting should be used; the Gi should obviously be washed only with other pure white items to avoid colour transfer.

Damage may be caused by fast spin cycles, chlorinated bleaches (which damage fibres and can cause the off-white cotton to start looking grey – mild detergents should be used), fabric conditioners (which clog pores in the cotton causing retention of grime) and tumble drying (Gis should be hang-dried away from the sun, which causes bleaching).

Sport Gis

Referring to Gis suitable for competition. Examples are found in the Adidas range with properties tailored to suit.

Generosity of Cut

More material in the right places is less likely to restrict movement.

Expense

Considering how long a good Gi or belt will last, possibly for the duration of your karate career, the investment over time is small.

Other Factors

Each Gi will have its own idiosynchrasies – closure of the jacket chest for example. Others include width of the drawstring hem to make retrieving the string easier if necessary and for ease of tying, presence and design of gussets for freedom of movement, ventilation and reinforcement and presence of a double inseam to avoid embarrassing exposure if the canvas tears.

Belts

The one belt a karateka keeps is his or her blackbelt. Once they have passed through the other colours, whatever they may be, and the black belt is attained, it is then kept indefinitely for as long as that person keeps training. The only difference in the belt is the colour: black belts are available as cheaply as any other. Like a uniform though, a good black belt will last for a long time; in fact, the degree of wear and tear of the belt can be taken as a rough indicator of experience and training frequency (appealing to vanity?). More expensive belts are available in a range of materials, widths and lengths. The central core of most belts is cotton, yet the outside material varies; however some belts use a Hessian / Burlap core, a coarse woven fabric made from jute or hemp; other cheaper brands use a non-descript pellon (any non-woven fabric interfacing designed to give shape and support). Whether the outer core is silk, satin or cotton, there is not necessarily any different in the inner cotton core, so the wear of this core will be very similar.

Belt Material

Cotton

Cheap cotton belts will last a good number of years for the average person. There are higher quality cotton belts (such as the Hirota belts which advertise “Yohachi” high quality cotton) which have greater durability. These belts are dyed throughout so a cotton black belt will retain its colour for the life of the belt but will fade on washing; signs of wear are much less obvious than with a satin or silk belt. Brushed cotton is also available.

Silk

Silk belts, available from Tokaido, are more expensive than cotton and satin and arguably look better (unimportant for training purposes). They have a silk outer and a cotton core and tend to show wear much more quickly than cotton belts; heavily used belts on experienced instructors are often faded to white and frayed / stringy. Initially these are more difficult to tie than cotton belts due to their stiffness and the lack of friction with the outer surface against itself, and so the knots come undone more easily. However over time they become easier to tie once the belt is broken in.

Satin

Similar in price to cotton yet with a satin outer core. Like silk, they show wear more quickly; the threads are delicate and more liable to snag.

Cotton/Polyester Blend

Some cheaper belts use cotton/polyester blend.

Belt Width

Different widths are available – generally 1.5 to 3 inches in 0.25 inch increments.

The width is simply preference but will affect appearance, the ease of knot tying and the ability to hold the knot.

Belt Lengths

Belts of lengths between 280cm-350cm are readily available; longer belts may be ordered on request for those with a larger waist. As a general rule the required length is that which would pass round the waist 3 times; a small amount of shrinkage should be allowed for.

Below is a useful conversion table between centimetres and inches; the belt should wrap round your waist twice and leave plenty material to tie a knot.

280cm = 110in

285cm = 112in

290cm = 114in

295cm = 116in

300cm = 118in

305cm = 120in

310cm = 122in

315cm = 124in

320cm = 126in

325cm = 128in

330cm = 130in

335cm = 132in

340cm = 134in

345cm = 136in

350cm = 138in

It is worth noting that some manufacturers use arbitrary size charts to indicate the length of the belt.

Belt Stitching

Most belts have 8 lines of stitching running along the length of the belt to stop it separating / pocketing. Some cheaper ones have just 6. Black belts usually have 10 to 14 lines of stitching right through the belt and may be wider to accommodate this.

Belt Embroidery

Embroidery on a belt should be chosen wisely. A good belt is intended to stay with you for life – if you chose to add the name of your karate club, you would need to change belts if you moved house or the club folded.

Belt Washing and Drying

Hand washing / soaking and hang-drying of the belt will prolong its life. A quick wipe for satin / silk belts may suffice and perhaps the occasional wash. Cotton belts may tolerate machine washing at cold temperatures (to avoid colour running) but faster spin cycles may lead to more rapid wear. Washing the belt alone is preferable although it may be placed in with other similar colours.

Infrequent washing is all that is required – depending on the local climate, training intensity and duration and how much you sweat as an individual. As with your Gi, use mild non-chlorinated detergents to avoid damaging the fibres and avoid drying in the sun (causes bleaching). Clearly many of these tips are common sense and applicable to both the Gi and the belt in order to prolong life.

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Source by Gregory Lawton

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How to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

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Climate change is a hot topic and an ever-growing concern. Reducing emissions as well as our carbon footprint is something every Australian can do to help the environment, and preserve it for future generations. Having an energy efficient home is the best place to make a difference. Working towards becoming more eco-friendly at home has incredibly positive effects on our wallets too. Conserving energy and making your home more energy efficient will reduce your power bills and leave you with more money in your back pocket.

There are several ways to make your home more energy efficient, from smart technology to easy DIY options around the home.

Making your home energy efficient with technology:

While they can be expensive, solar panels are incredibly effective at reducing your power bill and are an eco-friendly source of power. The savings solar panels create far outweighs the cost of installation. Solar panels are a great renewable energy source, and do not produce any harmful emissions. Solar panels often generate more electricity than you will need to power your home, in fact, you can send the excess power back to the grid in return for credit – saving you even more money!

Buying energy efficient appliances is also a great way to make your home more energy efficient. Look for the Energy Star rating on appliances such as washing machines, dishwashers, refrigerators and more. The Energy Star rating is easy to spot, make it simple to identify the right appliances for your energy-efficient home.

Simple tips to being more energy efficient at home:

These simple tips do not require large investment, but easy behavioral and lifestyle changes which will equate to a significant reduction in energy wastage and a much lower monthly power bill.

This includes composting food scraps which you can re-use in your garden as a nutrient-dense fertilizer. This in turn reduces the amount of waste that ends up at the tip. Being aware of your food wastage will also subsequently make you consider family eating and spending habits and becoming more resourceful to avoid food waste.

Another simple yet effective trick to reduce energy wastage is by simply turning off your appliances when they aren’t in use. Jugs, washing machines, phone chargers, toasters – the list goes on. In each room in your home, there are probably three items that could be unplugged. Consider the wastage across the whole household every day, and that results in a significant yearly wastage that could save you money if avoided.

You can also change some settings on your appliances, or the way you use them, to reduce energy wastage. This includes reducing the use of your dryer, using only the cold-wash settings on your washing machine, or reducing your thermostat by a couple of degrees.

You can create draught stoppers with old pillowcases to stop warm air being lost around your door framing, or cold air creeping in. While you’re at it, seal the cracks around your windows using a seal gun for an air tight home.

How else can you make your home energy efficient?

You should also consider insulating your home with underfloor and ceiling insulation. Another slightly more expensive solution, insulation not only adds essential warmth, but also additional value to your home. Be sure to get a professional to install the insulation for you to ensure all areas are covered and the installation is to a high standard.

Before you insulate, you’ll need to make sure your roof cavity is free of birds and pests that can end up causing costly damage to the insulation. To do this you’ll need to contact bird proofing specialists. They can ensure your roof will be free from pests, as well as keeping them out for good.

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Source by Brenden Wragg

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Playing With the Cure Time of Molds and Casts

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Every mold making and casting material comes with its own specific range of cure time. This is nothing but the time that the material will take to get completely cured. It can range from just a few minutes to hours or even a few days. The mold or cast has to be left to air dry on its own and there is nothing much that the artist can do in the meanwhile.

Similarly, the pot time or working time is the time on hand to work with the product after it is mixed until it starts to set. After this, the material will not work properly.

For instance, alginate is renowned for its quick setting and curing time, whereas materials like latex rubber require days on end to cure before they are ready for use. Most silicones have a cure time between 18 to 24 hours.

What to do?

Artists use various measures to speed up or prolong the cure time. In fact, delayed-setting and quick curing options are available for alginates, plasters, silicone and other materials. Sometimes, fibers, fillers, talc or magnesium oxide (for plaster) are added to achieve the same effect.

For certain materials like silicone, fast catalysts are also available. These can be added to the silicone rubber to significantly reduce the cure time, sometimes to even just an hour! Care is needed as adding too much catalyst may make the material start curing even before it can be applied.

Alternatively, techniques like hot air dryer, dehumidifier or baking in an oven are used to hasten the cure time. In fact, plaster casts are often baked to reduce the curing time to 12 to 24 hours. However, too much of the hot air can also cause the mold or cast to crack or spall. Also, silicone does not react very well to heating from dryers or lamps; it may just break out in unsightly bubbles all over the mold or cast.

Temperature variation

It should be noted that the pot time and cure time is generally measured at normal room temperature. It will definitely vary depending on the atmospheric and climatic conditions prevailing at the time of working/curing. For instance, cooler temperatures tend to increase the pot time and cure time while warmer weather is sure to reduce both working time and cure time.

This phenomenon can be easily used to vary the pot/cure time to suit your convenience when trying how to make molds. All you have to do is gently warm the material (both base and catalyst for two-part materials) before using them. This will speed up the chemical reaction and the mold or cast will take lesser time to cure. But keep in mind that the working time is also reduced and the material will start setting much more quickly. Do not overheat the materials either.

Similarly, cure time can be easily increased by refrigerating the material (both base and catalyst again) prior to use of how to make molds. This will give more time for working with the material per se.

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Source by Ed McCormick

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The Basement’s Leaking

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I am a proud, self-proclaimed nomad, always looking for fresh pasture. I can pack my essentials and be on the road in under five minutes. A relative once said that it’s easy for me to be nomadic because I don’t actually own anything. But in my eyes, I possess everything that any modern-day nomad could possibly need. A St. Croix 9 1/2 foot, 6-weight fly rod, a brand-new laptop, an automobile and a GPS. Oh yea, some clothing and a few personal hygiene products. But while me and my Buick camel can easily travel to anywhere in a moment’s notice, I do have a menagerie of memories stored in the basements of my happily-divorced parents. I’ve never watched the television shows “Hoarders” or “Intervention”, but one of my family members just might, one day soon, nominate me to star on an upcoming episode of both.

Now remember, after reading this, that you’ll think to yourself, “he couldn’t have possibly made that stuff up.”

I gave away my Taiwanese, woman’s boobs-shaped, wooden massage tool and the replica Iranian battle axe and chain mail helmet. It certainly would be silly to have things like that just lying around for no reason. I only horde important crap, things worthy of precious storage space.

While looking for a hammer the other day, I stumbled upon my copy of an “acknowledgement of registration” from the Selective Service System. You never know, 35 years later, when your military draft status might come up during an employment interview. Along with this document, are the test results that revealed what career in which I might succeed in the near future. “You should consider ‘Truck Driver’. ” Dammit, that’s where I went wrong in life! Stupid restaurants. The results from my DAT test (Differential Aptitude Test) actually seem a little bit more on-target. Abstract Reasoning and Verbal Reasoning-in the 95 percentile. Space Relations-30%. I can figure it out myself, just don’t stand so close. That’s how I read it.

In one box of treasures are my stuffed bears that I palled around with as a child. Smokey and Jo Jo. Don’t tell ’em if you see ’em, but they look worse-off than I do after all of these years. Now the name “Smokey”, I understand. Smokey the Bear. Belt, hat, badge and everything. But Jo Jo? Inspired by Jo Jo White/ point guard for the Boston Celtics? He hadn’t even been drafted into the NBA at this point. Who knows.

There are piles and piles of Valentines Day cards from elementary school. There were no transgender cards available back then. Everyone gave everyone a card. “Be my Valentine, signed Ralph”. Not to be a homophobe there Ralph, but I’ve still got a leery eye on you, even after 45 years. As I matured, so did the cards. I kept stacks of letters and cards from the very first love of my life. And the second one. And a couple from a younger girl who kept promising me all sorts of immoral acts. Didn’t really like her, but it made for good reading. And what a romantic little shit I was as a teenager. I wrote a poem for my first love that dreamed about living in a cave in Bolivia. “Give me a blonde and a bottle of rum and everything will be alright”. Good try, but it didn’t work.

For some reason, I have several of my Mother’s grade school report cards. It was probably a leveraging/bartering tool on days that I brought home my own less-than-stellar grades from high school. A quick analysis of my college transcripts shows amazing success in chemistry and biology classes (thanks Mrs. Bauserman), but a total disinterest in elective courses such as 16th century music. Heck, in my defense, you had to WALK to the library in order to listen to the rockin’ Hans Neusidler and his no-electric-guitar orchestra.

Grandfather Knode was a Free Mason. Thomas Jefferson, George Washington and Grandad. Along with his embossed certificate of membership in the secretive District of Columbia chapter, I’ve kept forever his masonic apron and book of by-laws.

Grandmother Knode worked as a secretary for Senator Millard Tydings. A monogrammed wooden box that sat on his desk was given to her by the Senator as a sign of appreciation, after he left office in 1950. That wooden box now sits in my Mom’s basement and contains a recipe typed by my Aunt B. The recipe is from Grandmother Knode for “24-hour Salad”, which is now a traditional dish served annually at our family’s Thanksgiving Day meals.

Grandad Lambert worked during a period of time when a man’s word and a hand-shake meant more than any written contract ever did. A receipt that I have, hand-written in the 1940’s, was probably given to him as a monthly reminder by a local filling station; bagged ice and gasoline for the outrageous grand total of $3.10. Obvious price gouging. There are a few birthday cards from Grandad and Grandma Lambert. And several birthday cards from my Aunt Dot. On her way to family sainthood status, religiously every year, Aunt Dot would send birthday cards, each containing a five dollar bill, to me, my two sisters and our 23 cousins. Each and every year, no matter where you were living. “How did she even know that I was in Savannah for three months this year?” Even if you didn’t remember that it was your birthday, you did after you had checked your mailbox.

There’s an issue of The Weekly World News, the now defunct, mostly fictional news tabloid publication which I always found so humorous. My live-in girlfriend at the time had out-nomad-ed me by moving out of our home while I was away at work. She later dropped off this edition as some sort of strange peace offering, knowing that I found the sarcasm very funny. “Redneck Aliens Takeover Trailer Park” The picture of a husband and wife, who had witnessed the invasion, was stoically captioned as saying “There goes the neighborhood”. I think the giving of this gift had a double-sarcastic message behind it. She was good at that.

Fishing was always a big part of my life and the basements are speckled with all sorts of fishing relics. A 40 year-old automatic fly reel that came mounted on my very first fly rod is still armed with the original fly line, forever cured with water from the Shenandoah. There’s an antique wicker creel basket given to me by Neil Armstrong. Not the astronaut, silly. The UPS delivery driver who was a bar buddy of mine years ago up at The Boston Beanery. His uncle had passed away and literally gave him the farm. Discovered out in the barn were three antique bamboo fly rods. “Well Neil, those are all Montague rods, ya might want to check on their value.” A couple of weeks and a couple of thousands of dollars later, I received that creel basket as referral commission. Safely secured in a ceiling rack built by my Dad are another half dozen or so fly rods. Because, you know, you can never have too many fishing rods.

If your phone number was (704) 637-4293 and you’re missing the rotary dial off of your telephone, I have it. Give me a call.

I once was almost a father, but he died in womb. Tucked away in a box in the corner of the basement is a picture of Andrew, that was suppose to help with the grieving process. It doesn’t work. The picture lies atop a couple of self-help books given as gifts, one of which is titled “The Expectant Father”. Wish I had, but I never took the time to read those books.

My one younger sister had some serious home-sickness during her first summer camp experience. A letter that she had sent from camp, addressed to me and my other sister, was written on the second day at Camp Strawderman. The now empty letter once contained a single stick of chewing gum. The letter read, “The gum is for Robin and Mary”.

I wonder if I ever paid this parking ticket from Dulles airport. I had left my car unattended for two minutes near the airport’s front doors, as I helped my Bulgarian buddy Lucy with her luggage, in a hurried attempt to catch her 6 A.M. flight back home. I guess that since I’m holding the ticket, that’s not a good sign. Wasn’t my car no how.

So an ex-wife came yapping around my house one day, accusing my of possessing a set of fine china that we had received as a wedding present. I whole-heartedly denied any knowledge of the flowered pattern of plates and coffee cups, knowing dammed well the definition of a fifty/fifty split. She gets a hundred percent and I get zero. One afternoon, years later, I’m looking for something ‘really’ important in my small mountain of memorabilia, when I came across box after box stuffed with old newspapers. The Fredericksburg Free Lance-Star to be exact. Well, thanks funny, I used to live in Fredericksburg back when I was married. Whoops. I’d give that china set away for free, but it seems to make the food taste sour. (But a little revenge tastes sweet) So in the basement it sits.

Before the days that OCD and ADD were invented, my childhood friend Stan and myself would spend hours playing with my electric football game. For the unknowledgeable, electric football sets were a small, metal playing field caused to vibrate by an electric motor, which created movement of the little, plastic figurines of football players. It was very loud and a lot of fun for a young boy. But being overly competitive, even at a young age, Stan and I took it to a whole new level of intensity. I have the spiral notebooks, filled with the plays and formations, that we hand-wrote and developed over time; we even kept detailed statistics of the games. The spiral notebooks, the still-functioning playing field and six plastic bags full of little players wearing their official NFL team colors, are resting comfortably in the basement, next to Coach Lee’s new football playbook handouts that we received once a week before math class in my Senior year of high school.

There’s the yellow lucky rabbit’s foot that I wore on my Little League uniform’s belt loop. Several engraved leather bracelets and a St. Christopher’s necklace. A Happy Turkey Day card, the turkey picture created with the tiny, water-color stained left hand of my Goddaughter Rachel. An 8mm copy of “I am a Teenage Werewolf”. I must have misplaced the one with Mr. Magoo.

Wait a minute, is that Zeppelin on the radio? Good Times, Bad Times… You know I had my share…

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Source by Robin Lambert

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The Extended Aeration Process And Its Major Advantages And Disadvantages

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The extended aeration process offers certain benefits that can be combined with conventional processes to obtain a high quality effluent. In this article I provide the major advantages and disadvantages of this process.

The extended aeration process transforms the popularly used complete mix activated sludge process. This is brought about through an increased hydraulic retention period as well as an increased solid holding period. Sludge digestion units that use an aerobic process are often used when implementing this process. The extended aeration activated sludge process is made use of in places where the influent reception rate in the wastewater treatment plant is below 50,000 gpd or 2 L/s.

Some of the advantages of the extended aeration process are:

This process requires little time for preparing the site as the plants are manufactured as pre-engineered and packaged units. This process proves reliable under sufficient supervision. Initial investment and costs are less. Land area required for setting up the plant is minimal. This process produces the least quantity of sludge among the various processes that utilize activated sludge. The temperature in the wastewater is around 15 degrees C and this enables Nitrification. Hydraulic loading shock at a moderate level can be easily absorbed with a minimal of problems experienced. The end result effluent is of a higher quality than many other processes.

However there are certain disadvantages too. These are:

The packaged plants and its pre-engineered modules may need certain changes to cater to the different regional standards for discharge. At higher temperatures there is de-nitrification which can potentially pave the way for sludge rising. A large variation in the inflow can reduce the efficiency of segregation of suspended solids in wastewater and its BOD. Compared with other wastewater natural treatment systems and land based systems this process consumes more power and has a higher cost of energy requirements. In colder regions the process is susceptible to freezing. Certain nuisance factors associated with this process are the odor produced when treating sludge and the noise from the blower. This process requires a higher quality of skill for operational and maintenance roles.

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Source by Rod Nash